No one could ever accuse Paddock Wood of cutting corners. No bland lagers or meekly hopped pale ales from this microbrewery. It is one of my favourite things about Saskatchewan’s best brewer. They understand that even in a province of Lethbridge Pils drinkers, there is no excuse for half-assed.

That is one reason I have always looked forward to the release of their Winter Ale. In past years it has been a rich, dark old ale that is perfect for cold weather sipping. I love lingering over a bottle while watching the snow fall (yet again!) in my backyard.

However, this year the good folks at PW messed me up. They switched the recipe for their Winter Ale. Gone is the full-bodied winter warmer, replaced by a dark version of a Belgian dubbel.

I must admit to a bit of disappointment at the news. But I tried some of the new batch anyway, and it went a long way to placate me. It pours a deep red-brown with a thick, rocky, lacing tan head that caps the beer impressively. Its aroma gives off toffee, caramel, soft raisin and plum with some orange background.

The taste presents a rich caramel and dark fruit (raisin and plum) starter complimented by an earthy Belgian spiciness. I get clove and pepper as well. The beer starts moderately sweet but dries out in the end as the Belgian spicing kicks in. It has a complex body with a vinous character. This is a good example of a dubbel. At this point in its development it might be a bit hot and not quite smooth enough, but that may change over the winter.

This year’s Winter actually comes in two versions. The regular version is available across the prairies. However there is a Grand Reserve, which has undergone bottle fermentation, that is only being sold at the brewery. So if you are in Saskatoon, consider yourself charmed and head over immediately and buy a couple of bottles. And try not to lord it over the rest of us.

I still wish for the winter warmer of Xmas’s past, but I am prepared to offer myself solace with more bottles of this year’s version. If that is the worst I experience this holiday season I am a lucky man.