My most recent Beer 101 column arises from a pub session where, by chance, I found myself drinking only beer whose styles were at one time considered either extinct or restricted to a very narrow local population. The coincidence led to a pit of pondering about the role of craft beer in resurrecting dead styles and popularizing regional styles.
The column, which you can read here, really only touches upon a few examples of what, I realized, is an extensive track record of bringing beer back to life. From Peter Celis singlehandedly returning Witbier to thirsty drinkers to Charles Finkel persuading Samuel Smith Brewing to give Porter a second chance, the pioneers of craft brewing had a significant hand in bringing beer to the attention of a wider audience.
Many of us know those stories – and others – quite well.
But as I looked at the beer menu during my pondering, I started to theorize that maybe, just maybe, we are seeing a second wave of resurrections. This time it may not be as dramatic as re-brewing a beer that had completely disappeared. It may be more a case of spreading the reach of what have been localized, niche styles.
Think about it – Biere de Garde, Saison, Gose, Kellerbier, Sahti, Gruit – the list of obscure styles reborn as craft seasonals or even year-round offerings are staggering. Even longstanding regional mainstays, like Czech lager, are getting some mainstage attention.
While in the past it was the nervy ambition of one or two people, the spread this time is more diverse. With so many more craft breweries operating around the world, there is simply more space for experimentation, meaning styles can get around fast, making it hard to determine who did it first.
I am also struck by the speed in which these styles spread. We hear of one version and a year (or less) later there seems to be a half dozen options available. There is more to it than copycatting. I honestly think brewers are coming up with ideas simultaneously.
It helps that some of the original versions of these resurrected styles are still around and slowly increasing their spread. Plus the degree of global travel also feeds into it
Regardless of the reasons, it is striking (to me at least) at the volume of formerly rare styles available in North America and being brewed by North American breweries. It heartens me to think that at the same time craft breweries are pushing boundaries and concocting new styles they are also paying attention to beer tradition and history and trying to create a new generation of beer drinkers with an appreciation of rare or historic styles.
October 5, 2014 at 8:26 AM
New styles, sure, but when will we see more new Breweries In Alberta? Seriously, new baby has kept my head down for months. I don’t even hear rumours anymore.