This review may be controversial. Many beer aficionados have given up on Big Rock. I can understand why. Their flagship beer don’t seem as solid as they used to be. Most of their special releases in recent years have been very disappointing. The additions to the regular product line have been downright embarrassing (Jack Rabbit Low Cal anyone?).  Consider it a problem of growing big. Or maybe it is that their approach appealed 15 years ago, but many brewers have surpassed them as consumers’ tastes evolve.

However, I refuse to write them off. Case in point: their decision to install a micro-sized test brewhouse, which they call Kasper Shulz, is a strong indication that they are not willing to give up on their craft roots that easily, despite the proportion of their sales that comes from AGD, Co-op beer and fake pub house brands.

They have launched a Brewmaster’s Choice series of one-time beer. All were test-brewed on the Kasper Shulz system and stepped up if they passed the test. Personally, I decided to measure this move by each beer they released. First up was the return of Magpie. I was/am a big fan of that beer so that was a great start. The next couple, not so impressive, but not flops either. The latest is what they call a Scottish-Style Heavy Ale. Confusing name. Is it a Wee Heavy, and why is it only Scottish-style?

I decided to try it, and chose to make it a review for my latest Vue Weekly column. As you will read, it is neither wee heavy nor any other kind of scottish ale. As it works out the beer is aged on white oak and so displays some characteristics of Innis & Gunn and other oak-aged beer, changing its profile immensely.

All I will say here is that I actually like the beer. It wasn’t what I was expecting, but it offered a nice balance of a brown ale base and a subtle oak character. It is not big enough to rate as a Scottish ale of any kind, but it does have a pleasant caramel and nutty malt accented by vanilla from the wood.

I could get all pissed off at the marketing people (and, to be clear, they are not yet off the hook), but at the moment (maybe because my website is just back up and running) I am willing to overlook the obvious over-selling of this beer. Because I like it. Enough said.

One mistake I made in the review was saying it was “aged in oak”. After submitting the piece I found out they put white oak into the secondary. A difference, to be sure, but one that probably doesn’t affect the overall effect of the beer to much

Read the review here. Sample the beer. And then feel free to post a comment with your take on the beer. I would be happy to engage disagreement with my position.