A few weeks ago TAPS Magazine announced through its Canadian Beer Awards that Driftwood Brewing’s Fat Tug IPA won Canadian Beer of the Year. Victoria’s Driftwood, despite only being around since 2008, has quickly developed a reputati0n for uncompromising quality ales. Jason Meyer, a former Edmontonian, and his partner have sought to produce beer that pushes boundaries. The 2011 Beer of the Year is Driftwood’s first major award.

As it works out (fortunately for me) around the same time as the award announcement a friend brought back from B.C. a bottle of Fat Tug IPA. I was floored by the coincidence. Knowing Driftwood’s limited distribution I thought that when I decided to open the bottle, I should share my tasting with all of you.

It pours a light copper-orange with a light wispy head that possesses medium lasting power. It is not a huge head, but it is determined. The aroma is dominated by citrus and grapefruit (clearly hop based), a soft malt background that highlights light fruit. The taste is similar. Soft malt upfront, but even the first hit has a sinewy hop – citrus, grapefruit, sharply tangy and vegetal. The malt base has sugar, some crystal and a roundedness a bit bready.

But hops is the name of the game here. It is sharp, full and fresh tasting. The beer displays an almost wet hopped character accented by orange citrus.

This is a beer born of determination, and it shows. Each quality is carefully designed, every contingency considered. It is rich, flavourful and citrusy. Should it be Beer of the Year? I am not the one to judge. What I will say is that it is an impressive beer. It has an impressive balance between hops and malt. It is not perfect, but I would happily sip upon a few of this beer.