Alley Kat’s Big Bottle series may be one of the best initiatives on the prairies this year. This special release series offers a single batch of a unique beer packaged in 650 ml bottles. Once the batch is sold, it is gone! The first in the series was a couple of months ago – Three Bears Oatmeal Stout – and it was a worthy version of this difficult style.

The second in the series was released earlier this week. It is the rare and special Maibock, which Alley Kat has dubbed, appropriately, Loaded Goat (Bock is German for goat, but the origins of the beer are more complex). I got an advance bottle, due to my fated departure earlier this week. I sampled it before leaving.

I will preface the review by saying that because we don’t get a lot of maibocks in the prairies (there is Paddock Wood’s version and the occasional Brewsters seasonal) I don’t have a ton of experience with this style. But I think I have a handle on the basics of the style.

It pours a rich medium copper with an off-white head with a middling kind of persistence. The aroma is a rich, bready malt with some sulphur, a touch of fruit and caramel and toast. I find it quite inviting. The front of the taste is bread, toffee and a cafe caramel taste, accented by a bit of light fruit. The middle finds some melanoidin and sharp toastiness. The finish is moderate sweet with a lingering bread and just a touch of hop sharpness.

From my perspective, this is an admirable maibock that respects the traditions of this style. It is malt accented yet still crisp and drinkable. Not as heavy and full as a traditional bock, it offers a spring approach to the style. I am open to hearing that other, longer standing versions are better. I just haven’t tasted them. What I do know is that I like this beer and that I am very sorry I am only going to get one bottle of it since it will be long gone by the time I am back in town.

OV: a drinkable, sweet beer that does what it should.