I mentioned the other day that last week I attended the American Craft Brewers Conference in San Francisco. This is not something I do every day. However, I learned a few weeks ago that a group of people involved in the beer industry in western Canada wanted to send me to the Conference so that I could expand my knowledge of craft beer in North America. Who they are is unknown to me – at my request – and I owe them a huge thank you. For the price of a flight and a couple nights in a hotel room, they gave me one of the most educational weekends of my beer life. None of them gets any direct benefit from their act, since I have no clue who they are. I am told they did it because they thought it might enhance my work. They were right.

This was a huge event. 4000 attendees representing more than 1700 craft brewers in the US (with some Canadian and other foreign content). It spoke of the success of the American craft beer movement.

In the last couple of days I have been organizing my thoughts and trying to put them on paper. Most of the more widely accessible observations I have turned into various columns, so I will refrain from discussing them now. You will be inundated with them soon enough (a la my stout series). So here, over the course of a couple of randomly written posts, I want to offer some more pointed and “beer geeky” observations. Isn’t the purpose of blogs to allow for such self-indulgent pursuits?

So where to start? How about with the beer! I sampled dozens of American craft beer (with a few imports thrown in). Many were excellent. Some were good but uninspiring. And a select handful left me looking for my socks. So, for this first post I want to go over some of my beer highlights, both to make you jealous and to simply debrief what I experienced. The event did not lend itself to taking notes, so my descriptions will be less than my usual standard – forgive me.

One final thought before embarking on my list. I tasted a number of world class beer unparalleled for their quality. However, the bulk of the beer was well-made, tasty and s’more-ish. But it wasn’t head and shoulders above what our good friends at Alley Kat, Yukon, Paddock Wood, Half Pints and others (and there are others – don’t get mad because I didn’t name you) produce. We make beer just as yummy as the Americans. This is something we often forget, and we shouldn’t.

So, what were my highlights? Well in no particular order (because how can you order perfection?), here is, at least, the first batch (there are too many for one post’s list):

Russian River Pliny the Elder: In one sip this may have become one of my favourite beer ever. Its rich, sharp bitterness is softened by a substantial malt base. It may be the most drinkable Double IPA I have ever tasted.

New Belgium Fat Tire: This is the flagship of one of the greenest breweries in the world. And, man, does it have flavour. It is full with caramel, toffee and fruitiness with a gentle drying finish. It stopped me dead in my tracks at my first sip (there were witnesses).

Bell’s Kalamazoo Stout: My taste in stouts is hard to please – I like them big and roasty. This one really fit the bill. Big coffee roast but with enough complexity to keep it both interesting and drinkable. The kind of stout I want to replicate on my homebrewery.

Ken’s and Fritz’s Ale: This is a beer none of you will ever get to taste, as it was a one-off special collaboration beer made by Ken Grossman (Sierra Nevada) and Fritz Maytag (Anchor), aged for one year and opened for a toast at the opening plenary session. An Imperial Stout it had huge raisin and molasses character, a relaxed roast and a rich, full-bodied character. Just its reason to exist is enough to appreciate it.

Ommegang Hennepine Saison: Saison is a hard style to master. It needs to be assertive and subtle, spicy and malty, challenging and refreshing. Ommegang found the tightrope with this beer. I went back for seconds I liked it so much.

Full Sail Pale Ale: For some reason I didn’t expect to like this one, but it won me over with its quiet drinkability. Not the most assertive pale ale, but it caught the right balance between hop and malt. Carefully crafted with a great result.

Arrogant Bastard (on tap): I have had Arrogant Bastard a couple of times in the last decade. It is an assertive, not-to-be-ignored beer. I have always respected it. But I have never before had it on tap. The result was fascinating. The hop softened and the crystal and toffee malt come out more. In a way it is more balanced and drinkable – I guess you might say less arrogant. A lovely sample.

Cantillon Bruocsella 1900 Grand Cru: I must finish this list with my obsession. I have long been a Cantillon disciple, and so when in a breakout session Cantillon brewer Jean Van Roy was speaking, I had to attend. Much to my delight they also served samples, YET there was not enough for everyone in the room. Somehow I lucked out and got a small taste of this beer. It is a pure lambic, meaning it is uncarbonated and unblended. Its tartness was soft and fruity, with some light malt backnote. Not as assertive as many sour beer out there, but its subtlety was its strength. I appreciated how the tartness peaked around corners, rather than hitting you with a brick. Proof, yet again, that Cantillon are the undisputed masters of lambic brewing.

There are many more beer that I sampled deserving to be on this first list. Alas, there is only so much room. I may do another of this kind of post again. Or I may find another way to highlight the great beer I tasted. Have no fear, there will be other posts related to the Conference. I probably got a year’s worth of material in four days. Talk about time well spent.