After my last post about the single hop experiment, a number of readers corrected me by accurately pointed out that Mikkeller is not the only brewery doing a series of single hop IPAs. I had neglected Brasserie Charlevoix and their Vache Folle Single Hop Double IPA series. So, as penance I decided I should pick up the two versions currently available (some punishment!!).
In total there are six in the series. I tried the Columbus and the Centennial.Whoa nelly! What a difference. The Columbus has a soft pine and fruit aroma, with a touch of citrus, and a bit of spiciness. Moderate malt aromas of brown sugar, crystal and a hint of toffee. The flavour brings out a soft honey malt sweetness overtaken by a moderate fruity hop bitterness and aroma. The overall impression is balanced, and likely too small for a Double IPA.
The Centennial offers a remarkably different presentation. The aroma is sharp, intensely citrusy and dominated by hop. I pick up big pineapple and some grapefruit in the hops. A background of toffee and crystal malt accents. The flavour is big citrus and feels both formidable and, to be honest, rather one-dimensional.
Neither beer is a great version of a Double IPA, but that is beside the point here. It does succeed in demonstrating the flavour effects of different hops. The two beer are distinctly different (and I must add caveats that brewing, transportation, storage and other handling differences may account for some or much of that diversity). I believe the qualities of each of those styles comes through. I have not brewed with Columbus, but have used Centennial, and I found the same pineapple/grapefruit character.
What most fascinates me is the big shift in malt profile. Again ignoring possible caveats, it is intriguing to consider how a hop may shape malt perceptions. Upon reflection this is not hugely surprising – as perception is all about relative weighting, not absolutes. A more prominent, aggressive hop is going to make the malt seem thinner. That may explain, even more than comparable IBUs, the difference between English and American IPAs. Even with comparable hopping, an English IPA is going to seem maltier and more balanced.
In terms of these two beer, I do wonder if they made their challenge too big by choosing a Double IPA, rather than a regular IPA. The amount of hops in double IPAs are pretty intense, and if you are only using one hop, the shifting effects will be quite pronounced, possibly undermining the overall impression of the beer. In my opinion a well made IPA is plenty hoppy enough to achieve the goals of such an experiment.
That said, I commend this brave Quebec brewer for the series. I hope to see more of them make their way to Alberta. It is interesting to note that Phillips Brewing in B.C. just announced a new “grow hops” single-hop IPA series. Clearly this is a concept that is catching on. This is good news (even if the prairies don’t get Phillips’ products) as I think it both offers unique beer experiences and educates the beer public at the same time.
February 14, 2011 at 2:53 PM
“I have not brewed with Columbus, but have used Centennial, and I found the same pineapple/grapefruit character.”
Jason, Columbus is often sold as a Centennial substitute. Any big alpha hop with a Manitoba wild hop background is going have a pineapple/grapefruit character it is all degrees of woodiness that separate the sister buds after that.
I think in your reviews you miss one key point with all these Charlevoix single hopped DIPAs, terrior. Quebeckers really love their Scotch Ales, a sweet style naturally. This craving sweetness translates a lot of their beers including DIPAs. Although we don’t have another Quebec brewer’s DIPA in our market, will use Dieu du Ciel’s Corne du Diable as an example. The Corne du Diable is 65 Ibus of Pacific Northwest hops but if you think about the beer, it is malt forward with a higher SRM than most IPAs that makes for a sweeter caramel hop bomb. I love this beer by the way.
If anything with the Charlevoix DIPAs I would like to see them better attenuated removing some of the sweetness. Charlevoix’s DIPAs are brewed to the luplin threshold of 80 IBUs. For those who don’t after 80 IBUs you can’t taste any more hops. Jason’s luplin threshold is higher than most as attested by this blog post.
All said I really grooved on Charlevoix’s Armiallo, Bravo, Centennial, Simcoe and Columbus beers we have had from them. The Herkules not so much.
February 15, 2011 at 6:40 PM
Hey there!!!
you guys will both be happy to hear that the reaction from our brewing staff to your discussion was that you are both right, and we will update our 2IPA brewing to 2011 taste and expectations by increasing the bitterness and lowering the FG and sweetness…. (not because of your discussions, but because we also felt that way)..
we will soon “re-brew” the single hop double IPA family with an upgraded recipe…. it will also be fun to see the differences in crops…. we already noticed that some of the hop varieties we use had better crop quality this year compared with last year, (and unfortunately, some are very bad this year, so there are some we might not brew this year)…
before we “re-brew”, we are still planning two new “original” releases with our 2009 hop crop, so don’t miss them!!!
keep up the good drinking, and talk to you later
cheers!
Fred
February 15, 2011 at 7:21 PM
Hi Fredrick,
Thanks for the note. I am glad that my post was seen in the light it was intended – a discussion of the experiment – and not as a criticism of the brewery or your efforts. You make some wonderful, fantastic beer. We are very lucky in Alberta to receive your beer.
I don’t think I did a good enough job in the post of highlighting that I think the lack of complexity in the beer is attributable in large part to the decision to use only one hop – which is the point of a single hop series. So, in that respect it isn’t a criticism as much as it is a comment on the concept of single hop beer.
I do think that balance is key in a DIPA. How you get there is a not an easy question. I look forward to trying the series Mach II. And would love to try the last two in the first series.
Only wishing I had clued in on this earlier so that I could have expanded the tasting.
Thanks again.
Jason
February 16, 2011 at 9:59 PM
Hello, I am Charlevoix’s agent well for Western Canada. I spoke with Fred today and we will be getting a new single hop DIPA with a new school hop. The brewery has no plans to tell people which hop it is and people will have to guess what it is in a brewery contest.
This product is a few months out but look for Charlevoix’s Fache Volle ???? DIPA this spring.
February 17, 2011 at 9:40 AM
Hoser,
That is one cool bit of news! I love the idea of a mystery hop contest. That brings the single hop experiment to a whole new level. Kudos to Charlevoix! Looking forward to it.
Jason