A couple months ago, Saskatoon brewer Paddock Wood released their version of the very trendy Imperial India Pale Ale (sometimes called Double IPA), which is an IPA with more alcohol and more hops to give it extra oomph. They called it Loki (after the Norse God). In the subsequent weeks, it went on to create a huge amount of debate among the online beer forums. Some reviewers loved it. Others – the larger portion – hated it. Not because it was a bad beer, but because it didn’t fit their impression of what the style was supposed to be.

In short, it doesn’t knock you off your feet with hops. They claim it is not bitter enough and too “balanced” for the style. Maybe. But I want to point out two things. First, Double IPA is a relatively new creature, created by the hop-crazy west coast U.S. craft brewers. We need to use some caution when rigidly applying criteria to a style that has only existed for a few years. Second, and more importantly, what is wrong with balance?

I have tried Loki and quite enjoyed it. I found it is imminently drinkable and it does a frighteningly good job of hiding its 8.7% alcohol content. It is not the same kind of beer as Dogfish Head 90-Minute IPA or some of the other imperial IPAs out there. It feels more British in its influence, for one. But it has sufficient bitterness and a pleasant hop aftertaste that happens to be matched by a soft crystal and toffee malt sweetness. Is it an Imperial IPA? I think so. It is just a different interpretation of what the style can be.

All I am saying is that we beer geeks (and I point my finger at myself first) need to be careful about not boxing craft brewers in too much. Diversity is crucial to the development of a craft beer scene in this country. So, this is what I suggest. Go to a good beer store (Loki is available in better beer stores in Alberta and at the brewery in Saskatoon) and buy some Loki and a Dog Fish Head 90-Minute IPA, a Lagunitas’ Hop Stoopid, or even Tree’s Hophead Double IPA or Wild Rose’s Double IPA (if they are still available). Sample them side-by-side, and evaluate for yourself. Think not just about hop bomb, but about drinkability.

If you feel moved, post your opinion on the comments page for this post. I would love to see a debate start up about it. In the end I don’t care which you prefer – I just think we need to open up our judging minds.