One of my first posts reported that to launch its 15th birthday celebrations, Alley Kat just released a smoked porter in VERY limited quantities. I got my hands on a bottle the other day and had a chance to try it. Since the beer will be around such a short time, there is no point in trying to insert a review into my regular columns. So, I thought I could make it a web-exclusive! So here goes…

Porters were the world’s first mega-beers, smashing sales records in 1700s England. They arose from a new brewing process that revolutionized the beer industry – making a single beer from the mash, rather than the traditional three beers of varying strength. However, as things come, they go, and the market for porter collapsed under the weight of light coloured lagers. It had disappeared completely by the 1930s, only to be resurrected by the insurgent craft brewers of the world.

Alley Kat one-upped a regular robust porter by hand-smoking some malt over applewood to add extra character. I particularly like their decision to hand smoke malt, rather than buying smoked malt. It will give the beer a local, unique feel.

The beer pours a dark mahogany brown with a light tan head creating a lovely, tight blanket over the beer. The aroma presents a blend of chocolate, soft roast and an almost imperceptible hint of smokiness. At first sip I pick up chocolate, caramel and dark fruit upfront, followed by a transition of light coffee and bittersweet cocoa. In the finish a soft roast builds up, but not too pronounced. The smoke presents itself more in the finish and linger – it is a subtle smoke. It builds a bit as the glass empties, creating a soft, dry woody coating over my mouth – this is not camp smoke, but more of a quiet, slow-burning smoke.

My impression is that Alley Kat didn’t go for a SMOKED beer with porter base, but rather a PORTER with smoke accents. The smoke doesn’t so much present itself as a stand-alone flavour but more adds complexity and a touch of dryness in the beer.I appreciate that. I find a lot of smoked beers (we don’t get a lot of them in western Canada) can be too smoky, which I find can overwhelm my enjoyment of the beer. Alley Kat has move smoke into a role of “best man”, letting the porter be the groom. And as robust porters go, this is a first-class version. Porters are one of the specialties of my homebrewery and this one has a satisfying fullness to it.

This is an Edmonton-only beer – so those of you reading from elsewhere need to call an Edmontonian you know and love to procure you a bottle or two. Plus, take my advice – move fast! This beer won’t be around long.

However, we can all enjoy some solace in knowing that there will be another 15th Anniversary beer from the Kats sometime soon.