I reported recently that a new brewpub is slated to open in Saskatoon in the coming months. Shiny Penny is currently trying to finalize a location but in the meantime arranged to brew a beer at Paddock Wood, under their licence, to promote the company. It is a Witbier called Saskatchewan Wheat Ale. I am told it will be one of the regular beer at the brewpub.

The beer is available only at the Paddock Wood Brewery retail store for the moment, but I got my hands on a review bottle and had a chance to try it recently.

It is a very hazy light orange hue offering a voluminous white head that maintains a consistent blanket through the sipping. Quite an impressive look. I notice as I pour it that there is an unusually large amount of yeast sediment in the bottle.

The aroma has that expected sharp wheat quality, a touch of citrus and some earthiness and bit of a yeasty note. I take a sip and pick up orange and lemon citrus up front, with a touch of sharp sweetness. There is some background pepperiness. It has a soft wheat flavour I enjoy quite a bit. The finish is tart and has a bit of a harsh yeast bite.

I find myself thinking that it was a mistake to pour all the yeast into the glass. Normally that is okay for Witbier, but I think the volume of it added a yeast roughness that detracted from the beer. I chalk this up to the fact it is a first-time beer – and my own haste. It is one of those things that is fairly easily corrected.

In fact I quite enjoyed the beer. It has a subtle complexity that sneaks up to you. Certain elements remind me of a Saison, interestingly enough. It is not as refreshing as my favourite Wit – Blanche de Chambly – but I consider it a fine first effort. It is on the bigger end of the style, offering a little more bitterness and more malt character than many versions. I find myself attracted to that boldness.

If this is what we can expect from the folks at Shiny Penny, it will be a destination of choice in Saskatoon.