Last week I reported my rather undesirable experience of trying an old bottle of Tactical Nuclear Penguin (read here if you haven’t) . The experience, plus some of the comments to the post, inspired me to pull out my bottle of Samuel Adam’s 10th Anniversary version of Utopias, released in 2012.

For those not in the know, Utopias is the strongest alcohol beer made by traditional brewing methods (not by ice distillation). Nothing other than standard mash and ferment. The version I have clocks in at 29%, so not insignificant. Actually kind of comparable to Tactical Nuclear Penguin.

I have had this bottle – open – since I bought it six years ago (I had to try it right away, of course). It is uncarbonated and meant to be stored like a spirit, so leaving it open is not an issue. Plus you gotta love its mash tun shaped bottle!

Immediately upon pouring a dram, I can tell this is something different than Tactical. In the aroma I get notes of sherry, dark fruit along with some earthiness and a noted moderate alcohol.

The flavour corresponds. It starts with a deep, rich sherry accented by dark fruit, particularly cherry, and a complex caramel, toffee malt character. The back end is dominated by alcohol, where things evaporate from my palate and I am left with this distinct alcohol warming. It is not hot, just warming. Rather pleasant, but making me wish it wasn’t July, but rather December, when I tried it.

It is what it is supposed to be: a beer equivalent of a port or sherry. It is an after-dinner cleanser, designed to be sipped on slowly over a half hour or so while talking of politics or community gossip.

I am taken aback by its smoothness. Despite its high alcohol content, it presents as a quiet aperitif. I would definitely consider this beer in moments when I think a port is in order.

Plus it serves as a nice counterpoint to the hot mess that is Tactical. It shows that a brewer with skill and intention can make a high alcohol beer that is worthy of drinking, even years later. In fact, of course years later as I think this beer is getting better with age.

And today, I don’t feel quite so stupid.