Last night I popped in on the official launch of a new collaboration beer at Craft Beer Market. Soon-to-open Two Sergeants Brewing partnered up with D Woodall Family Fund to produce Patrolman’s ESB. A dollar of every pint sold will go to the Fund, which has been set up to assist the family of Constable Daniel Woodall who was shot while on duty earlier this year.

It was not your usual beer launch, as you can likely appreciate. A bit more sombre and respectful than usual. And with all the cops in the room, no one was going to get too rowdy. The Edmonton Police Service Drum and Pipe Band performed in his honour and, in what I thought was a nice touch, a pint of the beer was placed on the bar by an empty chair for Const. Woodall.

The link between a police officer and Two Sergeants is appropriate in my mind, given that both founders are former armed forces personnel. The two occupations are marked by similar risks and dangers, and I can understand the personal feelings of Two Sergeants at the news of his murder.

I am respectful that a beer to commemorate a killed officer, one must be careful not to be too frivolous. However, this is a beer website and – if I am entirely honest – the main reason I attended the launch was to try the beer. So, let’s talk about the beer.

It looked like a classic ESB, with a medium orange hue and a decent, tight white head on top. The aroma was a bit subdued – I simply didn’t get very much from it. The front part of the sip was lighter than I hoped and offered a sharp graininess and edge that seemed a bit out of whack for the style. However, in the latter half of the sip, the beer really hits its stride. A rich toffee and soft caramel builds alongside an earthy hop bitterness. The bitterness comes out quite a bit in this version, but is held in balance by the growing malt body.

I find it interesting how even the malt character is back loaded in this beer. It finishes more assertively than it begins. The balance reminds me a bit of Fuller’s ESB, but not quite with that classic’s finesse (really, it is hard to make an ESB better than Fuller’s), but it is in the zone.

In chatting with the beer’s designer, we pinpointed the front sharpness to the yeast choice. I opined (but could be wrong) that a more traditional British Ale yeast would soften the front and also bring out more fruity notes to give the beer a more complete flavour. It is SO easy for a homebrewing armchair beer writer to identify what would make a beer better, eh?

Partolman’s was an enjoyable and nicely crafted beer and a fitting commemoration for Const. Woodall. On tap it will be served exclusively at Craft, but they have also bottled a portion of it and they will be available around the city soon.

And, as I like to say with these kind of project, go and buy a pint. Not only will you get a good beer, you can feel good about yourself for contributing to something worthy.