Sometimes it is useful to have a friend living in Belgium (okay, it is almost always useful when you are a beer guy!). In my most recent care package I discovered a bottle of Zundert Trappist, from Trappistenbrouwerij De Kievit. As the title implies, the beer is brewed by the monks of Abbey Maria Toevlucht in Zundert, Netherlands.
Zundert is the 10th beer brand to receive official Trappist designation, receiving the nod in 2014. It is the second Dutch Abbey to join the rarefied club of brewing monks.
As an aside, there are now 11 Abbeys that can use the Trappist label (and 12 Abbeys in total that are part of the Association), with the most recent being the Italian brewery Tre Fontane, which was approved late last year. Quite the change from a few years ago when there were only the original seven.
Being quite small, Zundert is only selectively distributed, which is where my friend comes in. She found the beer in her local bottle shop in Brussels and knew I would be ecstatic to get a bottle. She was right.
Zundert is officially a Tripel, but as many will know, sometimes the boundaries of Trappist styles can be fuzzy. It pours deep orange, darker than most tripels, and forms a dense blanket of white head. There is a moderate lacing down the side of the glass. The aroma is soft caramel, honey, toffee, meadow flower and a subtle yeast spiciness. I find it very inviting.
The first sip gives soft fruit, light caramel and a pleasant toastiness upfront. The middle brings out a quiet yeast spicing of clove and white pepper. The soft caramel holds its own through the sip, met by a rounded earthiness and gentle spiciness. The linger is softly Belgian but restrained. The malt character doesn’t get overpowered and allows the beer to finish slightly sweet. I also find a touch of alcohol warmth as the beer evaporates.
I am struck by how subtle the beer is. It is scarily drinkable (at 8%) and quite clean. The yeast spicing is restrained, giving the beer a muted impression. Those looking for a big, bold Belgian-style Trappist might be disappointed, but personally I am intrigued by its teasing qualities. The beer draws you in with quiet whispers and soft promises.
There is goodness in this bottle. I am fortunate to have had the opportunity to try such a rare beer. Thank you, dear Brussels friend!
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