Four Winds Brewing is one of the new breed of B.C. craft breweries that have been taking the province by storm over the past couple years. Four Winds opened in Delta in mid-2013 and in less than two years has already developed a reputation for producing high quality, boundary-pushing ales.

In my latest package from my B.C. beer pen-pal included a bottle of Four Winds Juxtapose Brett IPA, part of their Zephyrus Series (named after the Greek God of the west wind). The trick in the beer is an addition of Brettanomyces to create an extra layer.

A few weeks ago I opened it up to give it a try (it has taken me a while to turn my notes into prose). It presents light gold with an effervescent, loose white head that reminds me of a snowy mountain top. Decent clarity. The aroma is the first sense this is no ordinary IPA. I get a light malt with a bit of biscuit. This is met quickly by a funky, earthy mustiness and a slightly sharp pine hop aroma.

The flavour starts with a dry, grainy malt along with touches of a citrusy, piney hop flavour. After that comes a complete overlay of musty, pungent earthiness. While I also get some light fruit and grainy pilsner malt, these are all background notes. What really comes through is a tension between bright hop bitterness and rustic barnyard. They dance right through to the end. The linger has a sharp pine, citrus note and a dank mustiness.

This beer has a fascinating flavour mix, true to the name. I kept my attention through the glass as there are many layers and I kept trying to work out that juxtaposition. Clearly not a daily quaff, but a praisse-worthy experiment. Looking forward to more opportunities to try Four Winds.