The object of my latest Vue Weekly review (read here) may be one of the most unheralded beer I have ever come across. A fact made especially weird since it is brewed in the Centre of the Universe (Toronto) and usually EVERYTHING from T.O. is talked about way more than it likely deserves (Rob Ford, anyone?).

The beer of which I speak is a little known, about to disappear, hefeweizen called Denison’s. You might have heard of it. You might not. If you haven’t I can’t blame you – this beer flies under the radar. I have made some passing references to it at times on this website, but have never focused energy on it.

I first discovered it while on a work trip to Toronto about five years back. I had it on tap and was struck by just how good it was. During my last trip to the city I couldn’t find it anywhere and have since heard it is undergoing a transition to a new branding as part of a business merger with Side Launch Brewing in Collingwood.

What makes it so good? Balance. It has no one single outstanding feature but finds a way to meld harmoniously all the flavours one looks for in a hefeweizen. Soft, crisp wheat malt, a light fruitiness and a touch of peppery spice and a fresh finish accented by a zest of citrus. The beer has a soft touch to it, one that might at first seem underwhelming but through the glass becomes more impressive. I believe it is very hard to make a decent hefeweizen and most have too much of one thing or not enough of another. Not so, Denison’s.

What I still find confusing is why the brewery never really succeeded. It started life as a brewpub that folded and attempts to maintain it as a brewery failed. The beer, despite its superior craftmanship, remains a well-guarded secret. I realize running a successful brewery takes more than just a quality beer – lots of business acumen, hard work and luck, frankly, is required – but it still confuses me. I am pleased the beer will continue its life in the near future as Side Launch Wheat. Same beer (I am told), just a different name.

A shipment came to Alberta a few weeks ago – I suspect it might be a one-off given the impending name change – and so I snapped up a few cans. I encourage you to do so as you can. And maybe keep that empty as it may be the last of its kind.