When I was in Ontario in May, I found a few hours to visit a couple of new breweries that have decided to swim against the current in the wine-crazed region of Niagara-On-The-Lake. I spoke about them on my CBC column shortly after coming back and intend on getting around to them again – as both are quality brewers. Their names are Silversmith Brewing and Niagara Oast House Brewery. Both have only been open a short time, but are quickly making a dent in the monolith that is wine in that part of Canada.

As I said, I will talk about the breweries more fully another time. Today, I just want to write about a bottle I brought home from the visit. Oast House, opened in 2012, specializes in farmhouse ales – their two main beer are a Saison and a Biere de Garde. During my visit I enjoyed my small taste of Saison enough to pick up a bottle to bring home. And I opened that bottle last week.

It comes in a champagne corked 750-ml bottle. Like most saisons, it pours a hazy bright yellow forming a thick, rocky head. I get a light pilsner malt aroma complemented by a delicate peppery spiciness along with touches of honey and grainy sweetness. The front of the sip is lightly fruity and also offering honey and light graininess. This is a really delicate and pleasing ber in the intial take. Shortly after a rounded yeast spiciness kicks in, but nothing too sharp. Just a touch of earthiness and a dusting of white pepper undertones. It tastes almost like a dry spcied mead. It is really light and finishes slightly dry with a touch of hop linger. It also reminds me of a sharp tripel, except the yeast spicing is different.

Oast House Saison is a very delicate, dry, soft version of the style. I find it much lighter in body and palate than many I have tried, and I appreciate it for that. The dryness allows for a prickly carbonation bite to shine through a bit, adding a touch of complexity. Also going for it is its 6.5% alcohol, which is a more traditional alcohol level for saisons (most newer craft brewery versions are closer to 5%).

It takes an experienced hand to produce a saison with this degree of subtlety and balance. Many saisons either have too much body or go overboard on the yeast spiciness. This one gets that highwire act down pat, and rises in stature as a result.

I recognize this beer is not available on the prairies (yet, I hope), but it really is a must-try if you are in the Niagara region.