I recently was asked to give a presentation to a group of restaurant servers and managers. They wanted me to talk about serving techniques and proper presentation of beer. I think the presentation went over fairly well. Many, if not most, loyal readers of this site will know the key stuff – temperature, size of head, etc. But you would be surprised how few people have even thought about it, let alone understand the basis for recommended procedures. For the presentation audience, it was the first time someone had ever explained to them why cold is bad for beer appreciation.
More importantly (for here) I found prepping for the presentation forced me to think more methodically about beer serving and presentation, making me ask WHY I suggest certain approaches or methods. After it was done, I realized I had a good base for a couple Beer 101 columns on the topic. Which is exactly what I did.
The first of a three-part series appeared the other day (you can read the full article here). In this piece I focus exclusively on temperature (other aspects will come in the next couple months) and why too cold is bad. I won’t repeat the bulk of the content – that is what hyperlinks are for – but instead want to expand a bit on a couple of points.
One is that I want to encourage all of you to replicate something I did in preparation for the presentation. I got two bottles of standard macro lager (which doesn’t matter). I served them side-by-side, one straight from the refrigerator, the other basically at room temperature (probably closer to cellar temperature). Not only was the difference huge, it gave me a revelation. We rail against big boy lager for their lack of flavour and body. We might be partially wrong about it. There are flavours in there – you can tell when drinking them too warm. The problem is that they aren’t particularly pleasant flavours. I am not insinuating here that the beer is bad or has flaws. To the contrary I think I realized these are beer DESIGNED to be served cold. They may not have a lot of flavour, but what they have is possibly optimized at near zero temperatures.
Of course this is not true for most craft beer, which brings us back to making sure your beer is served at the right temperature. 4-8 degrees for lagers,12-18 degrees for ales, generally speaking (your preferences and the specific style may require otherwise). For beer drinkers this is easy enough to do at home. Leave the bottle out of the fridge for a few minutes before opening, store it in a cold cellar, etc.
But what are we to do when ordering a pint at our favourite pub? A much tougher task. Frankly our options are limited. Cup your hands around the glass for a few minutes, patiently wait a bit before drinking, suck it up and drink it cold. None are ideal solutions. The resolution to this conundrum is, of course, publicans who understand temperature. Very few pubs in North America handle this aspect properly. The default is too cold. For practical reasons they serve all their beer at the same temperature. The need for quick, easy pouring also factors in.
That is the next hurdle for we who appreciate a well-poured pint. We need to start calling on our better beer bars to figure out a way to up their game on this. It won’t be easy. It won’t be quick. But do it we must. The sooner we get pub owners who not only recognize that different beer taste better at different temperatures but are prepared to do something about it, the better. The new openings of various craft bars in Alberta over the past year or two show us how far we still have to go. Every one has a single keg room set too cold.
We have a long way to go to ensure our beer are served at the right temperature. Which means you will likely continue to see periodic pieces from explaining why temperature matters.
December 27, 2013 at 12:04 PM
Most bars now serve their draught in glasses that have been frozen (or extremely chilled). Our Original 16 line was specifically designed with this in mind. At lower temperatures the flavour and aroma are at their optimum. They lose a lot as the temperature rises! Part of the process we use also insures minimal chill haze formation.
December 29, 2013 at 10:12 AM
Greg, once again you offer a useful insight into the brewing end of the beer industry. Your comment confirms my evidence that beer can be designed to taste better cold. Not necessarily defending that approach, but I think it takes real brewing skill to do it. Until the day that we can convince pub owners to serve beer at its ideal temperature, I can understand why breweries make beer that can work at temperatures that are too cold, ideally. Happy New year!
December 29, 2013 at 10:40 PM
Reading your article recalled a recent experience I had about a week ago at The Glass Monkey: my wife and I stopped in for a drink and a bite after a day of shopping and I was delightfully surprised to find that Mikeller’s Sorachi Ace was on tap… but sadly not on offer. I asked for a pint but the bartender told me that it wasn’t cold. I asked what the temperature was and he said that the keg had been put into the cooler just that morning. I thought: “perfect!”, and told the bartender that that would be just fine and I’ll take a pint anyway… to which I was told that the manager had been told not to serve it because it wasn’t cold enough. My response was “I’ll have a water then.” As he served me the water, the bartender told me that the Mikeller Sorachi Ace was a very good beer: at that comment, I’m not sure if the guy was being earnest or cheeky.
December 30, 2013 at 8:13 AM
I also have a strong dislike for very cold beer, but I don’t get too upset when draft beer is served cold. I can hold the glass in my hands and it will come up to temp quite quickly, it is no big deal. About the only thing that bothers me is a frosted glass. I have seen a few places use “warm” glasses to serve the really strong beers, which seems to work quite well.
The Brewers Association Draft Beer Quality Manual states that 38F/3.33C is the optimal temperature for storing and serving kegs of beer. It is a fantastically manual that I frequently use for reference, and gets into all the physics of pressure, resistance and temperature.
How do you suggest pubs and bars serve the beer at warmer temps? Is anyone successfully serving their kegs warmer at home? I can do 40F/4C on my home system, but any warmer is too foamy/would require very long dispensing lines.
January 2, 2014 at 7:45 PM
My shameful beer confession is I really enjoy a cold IPA, especially one that is lighter bodied or that has brighter, refreshing hop character (such as Brewdog’s Punk IPA or Harviestoun’s Bitter and Twisted). I will get the full effect towards the middle and end of the pint or bottle if I take my time, and some hoppier beers tend to get vegetable-like and show their unpleasant edges if they start chilled but finish on the lukewarm side. Some IPAs that have too many different malts and hops end up tasting downright muddy. Even roasty and yeasty beers sometimes benefit from the bit of restraint that a good chill adds. Just my opinion but I prefer to err on the slightly colder side and if a restaurant can only keep one temperature in a keg-room, I’d rather they did the same.
January 2, 2014 at 8:14 PM
Graham, no shame allowed on this site. Your argument is valid (although I personally wouldn’t call Bitter and Twisted an IPA – more a hoppy blonde ale – but that is beside the point). I can understand what you mean. The colder temperature moderates some of the characteristics that turn you off of IPA. Don’t apologize for that. It makes sense. Same with roasty beer. My personal preference leans toward slightly warmer, but I get your take. Thanks for being open about it.