As the last of what I have taken to calling my Summer Travels Series, my latest Vue Weekly column does a bit of brewery comparison (read the article here). I look at the brewing practices, philosophy and interpretations of two VERY different breweries. The first is Edinburgh’s Caledonian Brewing, which exemplifies a classic example of traditional brewing approaches (I profiled Caledonian in a post over the summer). The second is Tofino Brewing, a new upstart micro that I had a chance to visit in the summer as well.
The two could not be any more different in terms of equipment, facilities, beer interpretations and overall beer ethos. Caledonian, with their copper kettles, Yorkshire squares and decades-old recipes reflects the 19th century approach to beer. Simple, under-stated, consistent.
Then there is Tofino. This small brewery – producing about 1900 hL annually – tucked into a couple bays in a light industrial park just outside Tofino on Vancouver Island – was formed by three surfers with very little brewing experience but with a lot of heart and determination. The brewery is a combination of modern, with a new brewhouse and fermenters, and do-it-yourself. The attitude is laid back and the beer designed to be very North American. Their signature beer, a blonde ale, an IPA and a pale ale are not as boundary pushing as many established west coast brewers, but they display the signature West Coast hop character and crispness.
Comparing two vastly different breweries may not seem the most interesting of topics. But I did it because after visiting both places I really was struck at just how different they were and I was impressed that the world of beer has matured to a point where both of these operations can be successful. It gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling to think that there is room in the beer world for fruity British cask ales brewed the same way for decades and for fly-by-your pants microbrewed beer with more edge.
Just like my recent discussion of bold vs. quiet beer, the old vs. new angles is an interesting observation about the evolution of beer in the world. I am well aware that the diversity and range goes far beyond old or new; there are dozens of brewing traditions and multiples more of innovators trying new things. It is a fun and wondrous thing.
They might be wildly different, but Tofino and Caledonian are, ultimately, on the same project – making quality beer for discerning customers.
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