Don’t ask me why, but on St. Patrick’s Day on Sunday rather than quaff a Guinness or even a Yukon Red (which is very much an Irish Red Ale), I opened a bottle of Scottish Ale. Maybe it is the anti-sectarian in me, or just that I simply wasn’t in the mood for an Irish-themed beer.

The choice that particular afternoon was Granville Island’s latest seasonal, Scottish Ale. Scottish Ales (not to be confused with their bigger, brasher cousin, Scotch Ale) are touchy, finicky styles, requiring both a boldness of design and a delicateness of touch. Too much and you have something bordering on Bock. Too little, and it just comes across as a watery brown ale. The middle zone is key here. You want a rich, caramel malt accent but without making the body too big or the finish too sweet. It needs to remain fairly crisp and clean, as well.

How does Canada’s first micro-brewery stack up on this scale? Their version starts off well, pouring a deep mahogany reddish brown and building a thick light tan head. The head doesn’t stick around too long, but long enough to create that crucial first impression. The aroma is more subdued than I would have liked. It has the right notes of raisin, dark plum, deep toffee and caramel. I also find a bit of earthy peat tucked away in the corners.

But it is the taste that will determine. It starts with a rich, dark, malty sweetness of caramelized sugar, molasses and raisins. I also pick up some other dark fruitiness as well, such as plum and fig. The beer dries out a bit in the finish, just enough to prevent cloying and give the beer a crisper edge. The linger provides brown sugar and hints of black barley (not roast – just a touch of dryness).

Granville doesn’t identify it as anything other than a Scottish Ale, but my palate suggests that is more of an Export (80/), rather than a 60/ or 70/. Indeed, the 6.5% alcohol content is well above Scottish Ale specs. Which is to say I find this on the bigger end of a delicate style. Don’t let the alcohol content fool you; this is no Scotch Ale. Those wanting that big boy of the Highlands should go elsewhere. This beer belongs firmly in the Scottish family. Its lighter body and subtle finish attest to that. I am particularly glad they opted to not over-sell the beer by calling it a Scotch Ale. They set expectations at the right level and are rewarded for it.

I like it when craft brewers tackle the more subtle styles. I feel it is a different kind of challenge for them, requiring restraint and finesse. On this score I think Granville Island has always done well. Some may criticize the lack of more explosive flavour profiles in their beer, but sometimes – even on St. Patrick’s Day – a little moderation is a good thing.

And while I may catch the ire of the most loyal of Greens, I suspect sipping a Scottish Ale on such a day is not such blasphemy after all.