On a recent trip to Boston, I was able to haul back a few treats for myself. I mostly picked up New England area beer, but slipped in a couple of other U.S. craft as well. With the travel-shock rest period completed, I have started opening them. And that makes me happy.

One of the first up was Stone Brewing’s Smoke Porter with Vanilla Bean. I picked it up because I was fascinated by the mixture of flavours that might impart. Stone, of course, is widely regarded as one of the best craft brewers in the U.S. Of course, tastes differ, but everything I have had from them so far (including Arrogant Bastard and Double Bastard) has been superb.

This beer pours a deep brown with rich, ruby-esque highlights. The off-white head is consistent. In the aroma I pick up sweet chocolate, caramel and vanilla. Only the vaguest hints of earthy smoke lingering in background. It has a dessert feel to it.

Upfront the beer offers milk chocolate, butterscotch and a lot of vanilla. There is no pretending – there is a impressive twiggy-sweet vanilla note here. It comes across as sweet yet earthy. Then a light coffee roast kicks in and some gentle earthy hops floats in the background. And just when you think the beer is done with you, here comes the smoke to dry things out. It is not an intense smoke, just a gentle edge that strips the sweetness away and leaves a multi-layered finish of vanilla, caramel, earthiness and bitter chocolate. The smoke doesn’t really present itself fully – instead it decides to infect the rest of the beer, altering the impression left by the other ingredients.

Overall, two things linger for me. First, I really love how the vanilla works in this beer. Big upfront, balancing in the back. Second, the smoke is surprisingly subtle without being insipid. I suspect the interplay with the vanilla softens the smoke character. With too much smoke the beer would have been too intense – offering too much and causing the base beer to get lost. Instead they walk what, I think, is a VERY fine line. They find a way to keep this multi-layered beer balanced and enjoyable.

Once again, Stone demonstrates their high degree of skill at brewing creatively without getting stupid.

Alas, it is not available in Canada. So plan a trip sometime soon.