Amongst the deluge that has been the new beer arrivals in Alberta this month is a quiet little Quebec brewery called Bierbrier. Bierbrier, named for its owner and founder, Charles Bierbrier (which they claim is German for “beer brewer” – and I have no reason to disbelieve them), started in 2005 to very quick, but  localized, acclaim.

Currently they brew three beer – Premium Ale, Pilsner Lager and Joe Beef Special Pils (made exclusively for a renowned Montreal restaurant). They also have a “strategic partnership” with MTL, which I reviewed last fall, that is a little off-putting given how lousy that beer is.

However, I remember drinking Bierbrier’s Premium Ale when in Montreal a couple years ago and quite enjoying it. So, I was rather pleased to see it on Alberta store shelves. I picked up a six-pack and after a relaxed bottle my fond memories return. I like this beer (a statement normally reserved for the end of my description).

They call it a Premium Ale, which is meaningless. Others have billed it as a Cream Ale. I am not convinced, wondering if it is a Blonde Ale. But, really, the difference between the two is pretty minor, so I don’t want to split hairs. It is a light-bodied, lightly hopped, refreshing ale. Call it what you will.

And now to the description (finally). It is light blond with excellent clarity. The head is thin and struggles to maintain itself; not the best start. The aroma gives off toffee and biscuit and a bit of demerara sugar. I also pick up toast and red fruit jam. There is a whiff of hop, but not really identifiable.

Soft fruit starts the beer off, along with grainy sweetness and an edge of harshness. It has a lightly toasted bread character to it. It is not too heavy, determined, it is, to remain on the light side of the ledger. It sharpens at the end, partly with hops but also with some astringency. A layer of earthy smokiness lays underneath, imperceptible to most, but present. It finishes drier and more balanced than the aroma would suggest.

It is not a perfect beer, but I find myself enjoying it. Easy to quaff, quite refreshing and well-crafted. A simple, straight-forward beer. It makes me think that I have found a new “starter” beer. The kind of beer you can offer a newly exploring beer consumer, when you don’t want to overwhelm them with flavour- lest you scare them off – but need to make sure what they try is well made and flavourful. I use Creemore Springs, Sam Adams Boston Lager and Yukon Gold a lot for this purpose. I think Bierbrier may just be added to that list.