No, this is not what I mean by Canada's beer personalities...
Most of you know I have been developing a theory about the general tendencies of brewers in each part of the country. In short, I argue that each region has its own distinct personality, linked to its history, culture and community energy. I first started developing the theory a couple of years back on my CBC column (pre-onbeer days). I expanded it last fall, also on CBC, with a four-part series. Alas, the good folks at RadioActive only posted the first of the four (which I posted about here).
I was disappointed the other three didn’t get put on their website, as I was hoping it would make for a nice audio primer to Canadian beer. I don’t blame them for not getting around to it – they have far more important issues to attend to daily than ensure a complete catalogue of a bi-weekly beer column. It is just that it kind of dashed my hopes.
So to try to make up for it, I re-worked that series into a three-parter for Planet S Magazine in Saskatchewan. The first part actually ran last month, but feeling a little gun-shy I waited until I knew the second one also made it up – which happened this week. I am highly confident that the Planet S editors will dutifully post the third part next month (and I will post about it then)
Part One (found here) looks at Ontario and Quebec. In many respects these two provinces are a study in contrasts, beer-wise and otherwise. Ontario, heart of Canada’s government and financial industry and marked by a quiet “Toryism” (in the broad sense) historically. Their beer industry is quite similar, with most of their breweries putting out quality, yet safe, ales and lagers. They don’t experiment much. There are exceptions, of course (e.g. Flying Monkeys), but I argue the general trend is toward accessible and well-made beer.
Ontario’s exception is Quebec’s mainstream – again in both beer and culture. Canada’s unquestioningly most cosmopolitan and European-influenced province also has some of the most cosmopolitan brewers. My time in its two largest cities convinced me that, at least sub-consciously, Quebec’s craft brewers merge traditional European approaches (such as Trois Mousquetaires and L’Amere a Boire) with American-influenced flair for creativity and boundary pushing (like at Dieu Du Ciel, Hopfenstark and Charlevoix).
In part two (here), I examine the two coasts – again with fascinating differences. Atlantic Canada is steeped in history and connection to British culture (even to today), and it shows in their beer. Bitters, Pale Ales, Scotch Ales, English-style IPAs, and stouts abound. Breweries like Propeller, Garrison, Pump House and Picaroon’s create balanced, fruity ales (although like all good craft brewers, they too, experiment from time to time).
Meanwhile B.C. looks south for inspiration and in particular to that bitter little green cone. Hop is big out in B.C. (Phillip’s and Central City are good examples), as is playing with challenging and bigger styles (Driftwood). B.C. reminded me more of what is going on in California (although not as well developed, yet), than in Ontario, Nova Scotia or Alberta.
Having drank in every region of the country in the last couple of years, I truly come away believing that different personalities exist. I think it runs deeper than just the styles of beer they make – it reaches pub culture, attitudes toward when and how to drink beer, marketing, labeling and perceptions of what “craft” beer is. My short overviews, by necessity, over-emphasize beer styles and brewing approaches, at the expense of some of these other details. Had I the time and space for a short book, I could expand upon some of those other dimensions. And if I did, I think the theory would hold up even stronger, for those other elements can make-up for the myriad examples each of you can find that contradict my gross over-generalizations above. Greg Nash’s hop monsters in Halifax, the safe offerings of Brasseurs du Nord, the classic wheat beers of Denison’s. I know they are there. I just don’t think they disprove the general tendency I have observed.
Next month, the prairies.
April 20, 2012 at 11:36 AM
I think you’re right about the general tendencies, and the fact that notable exceptions only serve to confirm the rule. I’d be interested if you could expand at some point in the future on the other things you mention that you didn’t have time to cover in detail, especially pub culture. I grew up in Winnipeg where until perhaps the late-1990s the only non-mainstream big brewery beer you could find on tap (and that only occasionally) was Guinness, and there were only two or three “pubs” to be found in the city. That has all changed for the better in the last ten years or so, but it still doesn’t approach the pub culture in Halifax or even Ottawa (both cities in which I’ve spent a considerable amount of drinking time). I only recently moved to Edmonton, but I can already see the differences between the pub culture here and that of Winnipeg, Halifax, and Ottawa. Obviously, Edmonton still blows Winnipeg out of the water, but with a few notable exceptions, doesn’t quite come up to the level of Halifax.
April 20, 2012 at 5:49 PM
Good reads, both the blog entry & the Planet S piece. I’ve not tried all that many Ontario Beers, but I think you’re probably right(just going on the 3-Wellington, Hockley Valley & Muskoka-that I’ve had). As far as I’m concerned, Dieu du Ciel is pretty much the frontrunner in the Quebec Breweries race. Their Rigor Mortis is a favourite(Belgian-style strong dark) & I recently tried their Blanche Neige(a Belgian-style strong blond?, though DdC call it a spiced double wit). In either case I think they knocked one outta the park! I really enjoyed their Route d’Epices with rye & peppercorns, the Corne du Diable is a very nice IPA, the Chaman a great DIPA , *sigh* Peche Mortel is no longer what it was, but Aphrodisiaque is still great with cheesecake or a good vanilla ice cream. Oh & the Equinox du Printemps is a good twist on a Scotch Ale(I thought)while Solstice d’Hiver is a great Barleywine.
Unibroue on the other hand-while very good, La Fin Du Monde a standout! Their Terrible(French ‘terri-luh’ lol) & to a lesser extent Trois Pistoles & Maudite are the only ones I’ve tried that come within spitting distance…although I seem to recall the Blanche de Chambly being fairly reasonable. But actually, speaking of blanches, I was pretty blown away by Charlevoix’s Dominus Vobiscum Blanche.
April 23, 2012 at 9:39 PM
Definitely wouldn’t say that JF at Dieu du Ciel is American influenced. When he made his Rigor Mortis line he studied at the Trappists, when he made is Alts he studied in Dusseldorf and this goes on. JF is very much his own man. Jason as you have met him you should know that. If anything JF is influencing Americans and why he is co-authoring the new Ray Daniels book. As to Charlevoix the brewer is Belgian and brewed at Brasserie des Rocs, and St Martin before being hired by Charlevoix. Don’t agree with your assessment even in the biggest of generalisations. As to Fred at Hopenstark if anything the biggest influence on him would be JF.
Wish Dieu du Ciel would bottle some of their lagers and klosches.
For the record and not that really has a lot to do with this blog post. for the most breweries per captia Denver has the most, Portland, Oregon is second, San Diego is third and Montreal is fourth. A pretty amazing stat.
April 24, 2012 at 9:52 AM
Hoser, I think you are taking too fine a point on my overview. I agree that the boys at DDC are not “American-inspired”. However, they have a degree of experimentation and playfulness in their brewing that is more reminiscent of U.S. brewers than, say, English or German or Ontarioan. That is all I am saying. Thanks for reading.
April 28, 2012 at 9:55 PM
I have family in Ontario and when I go back for visits I make a point of trying lots of Ontario craft beer to get a feel for what the province has to offer. On that note I have to say Church-Key Brewing based in Campbellford is an amazing little brewery doing some very creative (and playful)ales. One of the beers I tried at the brewery was described as having a parmasean nose, it did, and it tasted great despite the questionable aroma. Like all the provinces, and the country in general, we are just getting our feet wet when it comes to craft brewing so the complex and challenging beers are just on the horizon.