Often the quietest person in the room is the most confident and self-assured. I think it may be that way with beer as well. During the last couple of months I devoted my Sherbrooke Liquor Beer 101 columns to an exploration of big beer – bold, higher alcohol beer (to read the earlier pieces, go here and click on the older posts link). I planned on shifting topics this month, but realized I had neglected what may be the most evolved big beer of them all – the Belgian Strongs.
What strikes me the most about Belgian strong ales, aside from their distinct spicy yeast character, is how bloody well they hide their alcoholic strength. You can be sipping on a 9% tripel and if not careful believe you are drinking something more like 5 or 6%. Aside from the obvious dangers of unintentional intoxication, the hidden heat in a well-made Belgian ale is intriguing.
In the column (which you can read here) I explore a bit of HOW they might achieve such a difficult task using what I know from my research and my personal experience brewing them. Yet, I really doubt that I get to the core of what makes a Belgian beer so stealth in its presentation. Still, the insights may prove useful to you.
One thing you may note when you read the piece is that I intentionally refrain from talking about specific Belgian strong styles (dubbel, tripel, etc.) but group them in a single loose association. My reason for this is that, of all the beer styles I experience, the Belgian strong ales are the hardest to pin down. Not only are there myriad interpretations of the traditional guidelines (common among most styles), but there is rarely agreement on even the basic elements. To spice or not to spice? Dark, light or medium? Dry or moderately sweet? As soon as someone tries to label the key characteristics of a sub-style – say a Quadrupel – I guarantee someone else can point to 2 or 3 fantastic versions that don’t fit. It is a permament illusiveness.
I have personally experience with this. My dubbel recipe tends to produce a drier version of the beer. It has been dinged in competitions for being too dry. However, sometimes the judges award it a medal because they appreciate that a dry finish is an appropriate interpretation for the style. It is just how it goes in the world of Belgians.
I love a nice chaliced glass of some Trappist/Abbey ale to sip slowly after dinner, which I am told is much when the Belgians enjoy them as well. And I love to sit and marvel at how hidden the alcohol is. Gets me everytime.
December 16, 2011 at 11:21 AM
I absolutely love strong belgian ales, yet I find that the best ones are rather elusive. Like you say, they are very tough to master, and everyone may have a slightly different preference.
One thing I have noticed recently is that many people exploring craft and extreme beers, often think of strong belgians as “boring,” when compared to some of the more bolder styles that are currently popular in North America. While I do not agree with this, I would say that many of the strong belgians do not hold up particularly well to other styles in tastings. When I put together tastings (almost always strong/extreme style tastings), I like to do all the belgians first, where their subtle complexities and depth of flavour can be truly appreciated before being walloped over the head with the crushing bitterness or sourness of more agressive styles.
I also think that a lot of north american craft brewers do a poor job of brewing belgians. There are those that specialize and do a fantastic job (Unibroue, Ommegang, Allegash), but many other breweries turn out the occassional belgian ale, and I find they are often disappointing. It takes great skill, and an indepth knowledge of the particular belgian yeast strain being used to produce a truly great strong belgian.
That being said, one brewer that has recently impressed me is Paddock Wood; this week I tried the Silenus (tripel) and 2011 Winter Ale (dubbel). While they may not measure up to the greatness of Westmalle’s tripel or dubbel, I thought they were both very good interpretations. I know some people on here thought the Silenus was too sweet, but I thought it was well rounded for a tripel and still finished dry enough. The only knock against the Winter Ale is that it could have a bit higher carbonation; it is quite spicy, could maybe be a little fruitier, and it has a pronounced mineral/earthy hop flavour that I quite enjoyed, though it maybe wouldn’t be considered “to style.” Like I say, I quite enjoyed both of them, definitely their best attempts thus far at “brewing belgian.”
December 17, 2011 at 5:29 PM
I really hope Alley Kat brings back their Tripel, I really enjoyed that one.
One of my favourite Belgians is Tripel Karmeliet: barley, wheat, & oats (all three are used in the malted and unmalted form in the recipe), a sprinkling of Styrian hops, and a great yeast come together to create a great beer. I really like the lemon that comes through, and the creamy head.
If there ever was a good reason to start home brewing, strong Belgian beers is it. $20 a bottle for St Bernardus Christmas ale can really deplete your disposable income fast.
December 18, 2011 at 9:48 PM
And just personally Chad, I found the St. Bernardus Christmas Ale a bit of a letdown. A little too carbonated for me & rather weak overall(or is it Too subtle?)…I was kind of expecting a strong dark leaning a bit more in the direction of a Rochefort 10. It came off more Chimay (roughly 2/3) than Rochefort (approximately a third). But the Rochefort 10 is in the fridge, so I can console myself with that-the genuine item;-)-over the holidays! I will say though, that the St. Bernardus was well made & I’m considering aging a bottle.
December 18, 2011 at 11:39 PM
Darrell, what temp did you serve the St Bernadus at? I find it surprising that it woukd be described as a “let down”. I found it wonderfully complex and balanced.
December 19, 2011 at 9:26 AM
I am planning a tasting sometime in the next few weeks with 3 year old bottles of:
St Bernardus Christmas
Chouffe N’Ice
Gouden Carolus Christmas
I don’t really like any of these fresh. Should be interesting!