Alley Kat has released its final 15th Anniversary single-batch beer. The closing beer is a Cascadian IPA – sometimes known as a Black or Dark IPA – named after the northwestern U.S. region from which it originated. The joy of this style – which is only just now being recognized as an official style – is that it combines the assertive hop character of an American IPA, with a darker, richer malt base, creating a beer that is more balanced. Few of us on the prairies have sampled a real example of a Cascadian Ale, and so in many respects Alley Kat has it easy releasing this on our unsuspecting palates.
However, it is one damned fine beer. It presents as deep brown, verging on black, with a tight, light tan head that maintains a reliable blanket on top of the beer for the entire session. The aroma offers chocolate, some dark fruit and deep caramel mixed with citrusy American hops.
The beer starts off like a porter, offering deep chocolate and dark brown sugar sweetness. However the hops quickly make their presence known with a citrusy, earthy flavour. The bitterness is strong but not IPA like. It is balanced by a dark sweetness that refuses to go away. The linger is of light roast and piny hops.
I am told there are 70 or so IBUs in the beer- which is quite big, so the fact the beer presents as so balanced is interesting. There is as good lesson here in the dynamics of hops and malt and the resulting perceptions.
I realize this is a style I have had little experience tasting, so I cannot in good conscience compare it to other Cascadian IPAs. What I can say is that I really like the beer. Its assertive hop character is counter-balanced by enough malty goodness to make it decidedly drinkable. Simultaneously it is both an IPA and not an IPA. It is more than an American Brown and too hoppy for a porter. In short, I think Alley Kat gets it right.
American craft brewers appear to have created a new beer style. And I am encouraged local brewers are already finding ways to make it work in our system. Take this as a sign that good beer awaits us all.
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