A couple of weeks ago I wrote about the Unity Brew – the beer designed collaboratively by all of Alberta’s brewers with the proceeds going to charity (mostly the Kidney Foundation). The brew day was a blast, and the cause is above reproach. But how is the beer?

Well, I picked up a bottle this weekend, and thought I should offer a review of it. Remember it was designed as an amber ale with just a touch of American hop flavour to add a second dimension to it.

I will start the review this way. Rickard’s Red it AIN’T! And that is a good thing. This is how a pleasant, easy-going red beer should be.

It pours a light copper colour, remniscent of a steam beer, with a substantial off-white head that hangs around for a while. The aroma is moderately malty with bread, a touch of toffee and some light fruitiness. Just a hint of citrus hops lingers in the background, not present itself so much as adding a subtle sharpness.

The flavour is sweet upfront, again with bread, some brown sugar and a dash of vanilla. The middle doesn’t shift much, but the end brings out a bit of hop sharpness. Not a full hit of hop flavour, more a ghost of it – enough to dry the beer out a touch. I find at the end the beer drops away quite a bit. I was hoping it would hold up through the swallow but it fades away a bit. The linger does provide a bit of citrusy hop to keep it interesting, however.

It strikes me as a slightly lighter-bodied version of Yukon Red. It could use a bit more oomph in the body, but that is a small criticism (can’t we all, after all).

Overall it is enjoyable and easy to drink. It is the kind of beer I would pull out when a few friends are over, trusting they will like it, plus I can tell them the story behind it. I encourage you to pick up a couple of bottles – in part because it is for a good cause but also because it is a well-crafted beer designed by the best beer minds Alberta has to offer.