In Calgary today to do some family related stuff. Consequently I wasn’t planning any beer business. However, as it worked out I was near the Calgary Farmer’s Market this afternoon and was able to finagle a short visit to the Wild Rose Tap Room. I got in a short visit with brewer Dave Neilly and time for a quick pint. A pleasant surprise. Wild Rose’s latest seasonal, a Saison, is on tap. So I naturally ordered up a pint.

Saisons, for those not aware, are a French farmhouse ale, traditionally brewed with wild yeasts and spiced to create a light, summery yet complex beer of very unique flavour profile. The closest relative might be a Belgian Blonde with a hint of Lambic for good measure. Today most Saisons use a special strain of yeast, rather than rely on the risky business of wild yeasts. Additions of spices are customary. I believe the Wild Rose version has ginger and grains of paradise in it (and possibly other spices).

It pours a cloudy yellow-orange with a thick blanket of bright white head. The aroma is prickly and fruity of pepper, some citrus and earthy spices. In the first tasting I pick up ginger, some citrus backnotes and a lovely gentle spice. The spicing is earthy with a touch of black pepper in it. The piece de resistance is a slight sharp, acidic undertone – not too much, just enough to give it a crisper note and to keep the fruit from dominating. This piece really makes the beer enjoyable and makes it a perfect summer drink. The finish is moderately dry with a pleasant lemon pepper aftertaste. As I sip, the flavours weave in and out, sometimes more fruity, others more spicy, sometimes earthy, others a bit sour. It kept my attention throughout the pint.

I honestly think this is one of the best Saisons I have tasted, closing in on Saison Dupont – widely considered to be one of the world’s best. There is no question that this is one of Wild Rose’s best seasonal offerings. The beer is brewed in an uncompromising fashion with an eye to style accuracy. I am told that it is selling like crazy and they have had to re-brew it a couple of times already to keep supplies up.

Of course it is only available at the Tap Room and a few other select locations in Calgary. So sorry to all you other prairie beersters. You’re gonna have to do what I did and sweet talk someone near you into a visit to the brewery.