Portland is truly beer heaven (as I attest to here). I went a couple years back and spent a few days dipping my toe in the amazing beer culture they have built. I tried many amazing beer, the range of which was kind of overwhelming. If you like a particular kind of beer, Portland has it.

They, and the rest of the West Coast, are mostly known, of course, for their IPAs. Dry, citrusy and sometimes insanely hoppy. A hophead’s dream come true. I tried many IPAs during my trip and enjoyed most of them.

In the weeks after the trip – when memories start to fade – I found one IPA hung around in my brain. It wasn’t the most out-there beer, nor in the moment the most attention-grabbing. But its flavours lingered with me in a way many of the others didn’t. I also know it does not have the same kind of global reputation as some of its compatriots in the city.

And then a few weeks ago I was at my favourite liquor store (you all know who that is…) and found a bottle of it on the shelf! I don’t know if this was a one-time thing or if their beer will be regularly available, but for a brief moment I was transported back to Portland. And, obviously, scooped up a couple of bottles.

That beer is Laurelwood Workhorse IPA.

Laurelwood is mostly a brewpub that does some packaging on the side (which is why I was surprised to find it in Edmonton). Portland is a crowded, and highly demanding, market and so I have no idea where Laurelwood sits in the overall community. Although I must note they have 5 locations, including the airport, so they must have some decent penetration. All I know is this beer stood out for me.

Why? Let me describe.

It pours light orange with a moderate white head. It offers a substantial amount of lacing and generally something of a viscous look overall. It has only a hint of haze, instead offering a quite clear presentation. The aroma is dominated by rich pine and citrus hop, supported by some sweet honey in background and notes of light fruit as well. I also get some papaya and a resiny hue.

In the sip it starts with soft biscuit and toffee. I get a floral honey out of it along with some fruity esters. The middle brings out some soft sweetness but also a resiny, fresh hop note. As the beer moves across my mouth an assertive pine, papaya and grapefruit citrus flavour builds. The finish is piney and resiny with just enough fruity sweetness to balance. That also might be my one quibble: the resin lingers a bit too long and interferes with the finish. Being a touch cleaner at the end would help the overall impression.

There is no question this is an assertive IPA, but I don’t find it overpowering. It has a forward West Coast hops that are dominated by pine and citrus. That said, I find there is enough malt bill to keep the beer from becoming one-dimensional. I wouldn’t go as far as to call it a West-East Coast hybrid, but it does offer enough malt to edge it in that direction. Maybe that is what I like about it. It has a capacity to be complex without any one element getting out of proportion, something I find sometimes in west coast IPAs. This is a real IPA, but maintains drinkability by being interesting.

Portland has no shortage of things to offer the beer world. Many get shouted from the rooftop. Laurelwood’s IPA may be one of those quieter secrets that people in the know, well, know. Officially consider yourself a person-in-the-know.