Maybe it has something to do with the (still remote) possibility of an NDP government on May 5, but Alberta has become an awfully attractive market for the big American craft brewers of late. A number of the older, larger breweries have entered the Alberta market, including Stone, Goose Island, New Belgium and Widmer Brothers.

The most recent wooer of Alberta beer drinkers is Redhook Ale Brewery. The Seattle-based brewery opened in 1981 and grew quite a lot over twenty years or so. It grew big enough to open a second, east coast brewery in New Hampshire a few years back.

In 2008 Redhook also became the centre of a controversial agglomeration called Craft Brew Alliance (CBA). CBA began as a merger between Redhook and Portland’s Widmer Brothers. They subsequently purchased Hawaii’s Kona Brewing in 2010. What makes CBA controversial is that about 1/3 of its ownership is held by AB-Inbev. That stake is sufficient to knock CBA, and its related breweries, out of the definition of “craft beer” as defined by the Brewers’ Association.

Of course, definitions are just that, and it doesn’t mean the beer made by Widmer, Kona or Redhook are not craft-quality. We just simply need to remember to whom they are beholden.

Redhook is launching in Alberta with three beer. I decided to give each a try to see how Redhook stacks up against some of the other American giants.

First up is Audible Ale, which they describe as a sessionable beer designed for drinking while watching sports. I interpret this as something of a blonde ale. The appearance plays this prediction out, as the beer is medium yellow with a loose white head. The aroma offers faint grainy malt, some honey, but is fairly subdued overall. The first flavour impression is a light graininess, some honey and soft earthy sweetness. The middle sharpens a bit with a touch of hop bitterness and some light fruitiness. The finish is a classic blonde ale linger, with touches of hop and a sharp, pilsner like grain.

I find the beer a bit boring but overall fairly well made (not unlike NFL football). Nothing really to criticize, it has all the flavours it needs to have. The overall effect is a bit non-descript, but the individual pieces are interesting.

I then opened up one of their flagships, the ESB. It pours medium orange and building a tightly beaded white head with touches of lacing. The aroma has some light toffee and nut balanced by an earthy hop. The toffee extends itself into the taste, accompanied by light sugar malt. I also pick up British-style fruitiness. The background suggests touches of biscuit and lightly toasted toast. The hops are subtle but enter as earthy and floral, offering some complexity and just enough bitterness to create balance.

Again, the overall effect of the beer is middling but the individual flavours are endearing. It is not a world-beater, but certainly is true to style. It is soft and nicely balanced. A few more IBUs might bring out character in the beer a bit more.

Finally, I pop open their Long Hammer IPA. It is medium gold and almost lager-like in its brilliant clarity. Its wispy white head fades quite quickly. The aroma brings out biscuit, some lingering grass and a bit of honey. There is a floral, bright hop aroma, but like the other two the aroma overall is a bit subdued. The front is quite light, emphasizing graininess and a bit of light fruit but overall fairly quiet. In the middle a sharp citrusy hop flavour picks up, rough and intense. The bitterness builds in the end. It is a blend of floral and citrus. Draws out a grainy harshness as well. I get a fruity, apricot character to the beer – a combo of prickly citrus hops and fruity esters I imagine. Linger doesn’t hang around as much as I would like.

A decent beer but lacking the extra little pieces an IPA needs. The front is a bit too timid, which means the hops has nothing to rest on. There is a bit too much sharpness overall, edging into astringency. The linger is a bit soapy as well. It is fine for a pint, but not sure I would make it a regular offering.

What have I learned from my trek through Redhook? Well-made beer with some lovely elements but the final product is a bit quieter than I would hope. In a way it makes sense – Redhook is one of the oldest craft breweries and its size requires that it aims more for the accessible end of the craft market. Their situation is not dissimilar to Calgary’s Big Rock these days.

Still, it was worth the effort. After all those years reading about Redhook in Zymurgy, it was nice to finally get a chance to sample the famous product.