In this day and age full of hopped-up IP-Everythings, it can be very easy to forget the origins of the style India Pale Ale. Before the Americans brought their big and brash to IPAs, the British had long been taking their own approach to the style. A modern British IPA is a fruitier, more balanced and significantly less hopped brethren to American IPAs.

I think in our ongoing quest for that elusive lupulin hit, we can often overlook the joyous subtleties in a classic British IPA. What I appreciate about British interpretations is that they are often a direct link to their historical roots. While the recipes are undoubtedly changed, the overall approach, as well as the traditional brewing processes, often remain standing.

Case in point: Worthington’s White Shield, recently available in Alberta. White Shield is a hallmark of traditional British IPAs.When I first discovered its arrival I quickly felt I had to make it a subject of some columns. A review was published in Vue Weekly last week (read here) and on Friday it will be the focus of my CBC column (4:40 pm on 740AM/93.9FM).

I am drawn to talk about this beer for a couple of reasaons. First, it has real history, having been brewed in Burton-Upon-Trent since 1822. Second, I believe it still represents what a British IPA is all about, a delicate hop bitterness balanced by round malt and a distinct fruitiness.

Third, I appreciate the irony in its recent revival. A couple decades ago White Shield was dying a slow, mostly anonymous death. Then the purchase of Bass Brewery (who took over Worthington’s in the 1920s) by Molson-Coors about a decade ago actually gave room to breathe new life into the brand. With the added marketing and distribution power of the large multi-national, the beer has started to take off again. And, thankfully, (at least as far as I can tell) they haven’t messed with the recipe.

It is an interesting study in both beer history and a often over-looked approach to brewing IPAs. Well worth a try or three.