Beer people write odes to Portland (including me – check here and here). They wax eloquent about Denver or New York or Chicago. And for good reason. But what about San Diego? Many of you will nod your head, but I predict a larger portion of you will ask what have they got besides Sea World and the Zoo? Some will know they are home to the epically famous Stone Brewing, and some are aware they are ground zero for West Coast IPA with its bone dry malt profile and assertive citrus and pine hop character.

But how many know that San Diego might be the fastest growing beer scene in North America? It is home to more than 80 breweries (with a county population smaller than Alberta), a number that has almost doubled in the last 5 years. And for every well-established brewery like Stone, Green Flash and Ballast Point, there are a number of smaller, newer and lesser known breweries putting out innovative and satisfying beer.

A couple weeks ago, the San Diego Tourism Authority hosted me on a three-day media tour of San Diego’s beer scene. Why? Well, they are trying to drum up Canadian interest in their growing San Diego Beer Week and Craft Beer Festival (November 7 to 16). They have partnered with Festival Seekers, a website devoted to festival tourism to promote the 2014 edition of the festival. Together they have put together a travel package and have even set up a contest for a free trip to San Diego.

My role was simply to do what I do best – drink some beer, get a feel for the craft beer scene in their city and then come home and write a bit about it.

I came away more impressed than I thought I would be. I did my research before leaving and knew there were a handful of beer places and a cluster of breweries that any beer guy should experience. What I wasn’t expecting was the range of beer options.

You see, San Diego is known for West Coast IPA. It might be the epi-centre of this sub-style. The first thing I can say is that after three days in the city, I come away with a much bigger appreciation for what a West Coast IPA is. I used to think it was too dry and too thin, but after having more than a dozen authentic versions, I come to see how that dryness accents the citrusy hops and offers a unique beer experience.

I did the requisite stuff. I toured Green Flash and Stone Brewing. These are killer breweries, regardless of marketing and hype. But I also got to spend some time in San Diego’s lesser known beer corners. For example, Monkey Paw might be the most unapologetic brewery in the U.S. right now. This little brewpub has won dozens of competition medals, developed a local reputation and has done it without ever brewing the same beer twice. They embody the spirit of craft brewing – small, local and constantly trying new things.

Or there is Hillcrest Brewing, the U.S.’s first openly gay brewpub (that is their claim, which I can’t confirm). The beer is solid, in particular the Perle Necklace Pale Ale and the Crotch Rocket Irish Red. As you can sense, double entendres are the name of the game at Hillcrest, which I totally enjoy.

The oddly decorated, but unbelievably welcoming Hamilton’s Tavern

The brewery that I am convinced EVERYONE will know about in five years is Societe. Formed less than two years ago by two former brewers from Bruery, they are offering an impressive range of beer, both San Diego style and other approaches.  You can experience a wide variety, from their The Publican, a sharp and light pale ale, to The Debutante, a hoppy Belgian Blonde, among many others.

San Diego has a very close-knit, supportive beer community. I was impressed by the lack of back talk, subtle slags and open criticism. They seem to sincerely support one another and recognize there is room for all of them. In a way this is to be expected, but it seemed more honest and real to me than other cities I have visited.

And, before I finish, I must tell you about one of the best pubs in North America. Hamilton’s Tavern (owned by the owner of Monkey Paw) is in a distinctly uncool part of San Diego, south of the best beer strip, North Park. It may be the best neighbourhood pub I have visited. Cozy, earthy and friendly with, oddly, a ceiling of hanging tap handles, this pub makes you feel welcome immediately. Not only is it the only place in San Diego to consistently serve Pliny the Elder (see here for my first experience of this unbelievable beer), but it offers an impressive selection of California and American craft ales. But, as might be expected, it is not so much the beer selection that elevates Hamilton’s as its atmosphere. I spent twice as long there as planned, simply because I kept chatting with the people around me at the bar. Now, THAT is the sign of a great pub!

This is my overview post on my trip. In the coming weeks look for some specific stuff that will warm the heart of the beer geeks and intrigue those who are simply San Diego beer curious.