My most recent Vue Weekly review (which you can read here) is of Oskar Blues Dale’s Pale Ale. I did a onbeer post when the beer first arrived on tap in Alberta (found here), anchored around a bit of a side-by-side with Alley Kat’s Full Moon.
The Vue piece largely copies that structure, just adding in newer tasting notes for Dale’s Pale Ale. What it twigs me to today, however, is a reflection on how widely different intepretations of a style can be. I have discussed this before, but given that I regularly get the dreaded “what is the best example of a an X?” question, it feels there is still plenty of room for reminder. In fact I find myself falling prey to the trap from time to time as well. Recently to a friend I extolled Fuller’s ESB as “likely the exemplar of the style”. While it may be factually accurate in the case of Fuller’s, it still edges into the world of ranking interpretations. There are lots of other great ESBs out there – most tend to be a bit drier and less full-bodied. Maybe some people find the Fuller’s too full and fruity? I can respect that.
That is my point, we go out on a limb when we try to proclaim X beer is “the best” of its style. In fact we risk someone sawing the limb off behind us. There is a big difference between expressing a preference and trying to rank according to some objective criteria.
But I am not saying we can’t judge objectively. Quite frankly, that is my job, as it is the hundreds of beer judges around the country. We need criteria upon which to evaluate. Of that there is no question. But the Dale’s Pale and Full Moon comparison is a good one for demonstrating the limits to objective criteria. I think most knowledgeable beer drinkers would argue both are excellent pale ales. Full Moon is sharper with a more balanced and elegant profile. Dale’s Pale Ale is bolder, more assertive, bringing out the citrus and pine hop character. How can we reasonably argue one is inherently better than the other? We can express personal preferences, but that only tells us which interpretation we most enjoy. Which is a different measure than overall quality. Beware the un-caveated expression of superiority.
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