I may or may not be the first person in Alberta to try the latest version of Paddock Wood’s Winter Ale. I tried it last night, after picking it up earlier in the afternoon. Likely someone else bought and opened one first. All I know is that it has only been on Alberta shelves for a few days and there is no outward evidence of someone having tried it yet. Not that it matters; I am usually weeks late on my reviews.

It is just nice, once in a while, to actually be in front of the curve. It doesn’t happen very often for me.

Anyway, despite its name PW Winter Ale for the last few years has been designed as a Belgian Dubbel, rather than a classic Xmas ale. This makes it something of an anomaly among Christmas/Winter themed beer. In previous years I have asked to myself whether that makes any sense, without satisfactory answer.

But on to the beer:

It pours reddish brown with a pale tan head and a tight bead. I also find quite a bit of lacing. It is quite, and surprisingly , clear and crisp looking. The aroma is dominated by toffee, burnt caramel, raisin and a bit of toasty bread. I do find some Belgian yeast character but it is rather subdued.

However, the flavour suggests something quite different. At the front is a bit of bread, caramel, toast, and a dark fruitiness of black currant, raisin and plum. In the middle we finally find the yeast note as it draws in an earthy spiciness of nutmeg and clove. The finish builds a bit more pepper and yeast funkiness. the finish is moderately sweet but balanced by an earthy sharpness.

As a dubbel it is not perfect, but quite fascinating. It is a bit fuller than many versions, but it has a sneaky spiciness that is appealing. To be honest, I think this beer could easily confuse people. It has some strong nutmeg, ginger and clove character that could convince someone that it is a winter spiced ale. So, maybe its Winter Ale moniker is not so badly placed. In a way, if you compare it to the sweet, vanilla-infused examples of Winter Ales, it comes out looking quite good. It has a fullness you want from a winter ale, a sharp spiciness to add character and an overall warming effect from the alcohol content.

So, despite my previous doubts, I suspect this beer deserves to be called a Winter Ale. They have found a way to combine a classic Belgian style with a more modern sentiment about winter beer. Good on them. An interesting beer that will go with many holiday events.