In my latest Beer 101 column (which actually has been up for a couple of weeks), I take an honest look at the ever raging debate between those who advocate drinking local and those who extol the virtues of sampling the best the world has to offer. You can read the whole article here, but I want to highlight a couple of thoughts from the column.
I have been struck at how often the issue of local vs. import pops up in the beer world. Comments on this website often reveal the divide between the two groups. Many loyal readers are avid advocates of the small breweries in our prairie cities, regularly urging others to support them with their consumer dollars. Others, I find, take a different tack, arguing the local breweries are too timid in their approach to styles and point to imports from the U.S., Britain and elsewhere as more desirable options.
This is not Two Solitudes. The groups have mutual respect for each other, and both are more than happy to acknowledge the merits of the other’s position. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t two positions in the discussion.
In the column I break down the relative advantages of each position: local means getting fresher, community-based, more environmentally sound craft beer at a lower cost; imports mean sampling some of the best the world has to offer and reveling in the full diversity the beer world has to offer. In a way it boils down to “I want the best!” vs. “I am part of a community!”. That is why the debate never goes away; it is anchored in fundamentally different premises.
We don’t resolve the issue by simply saying that once our cities have more breweries offering a wider range of beer and more “world-class” beer, we won’t need import beer. Even if I lived in San Diego, Portland, London, Brussels or Munich there would be styles of beer under-represented and “better” examples of styles brewed elsewhere.
Similarly, paying no attention to local product and emphasizing imports can be a self-destructive cycle. Without local brewers building interest in craft beer, there will be less market for the more expensive imports. It wasn’t that long ago when “import” meant Heineken, Guinness and Stella Artois. Building interest in craft beer means growing support at all levels.
It will come as a surprise to no one that I come down firmly straddling both sides of the fence (ouch!). In a way my take – which can be summed up as “we need both” – is so obvious as to be banal. But if it is so obvious, how come I keep seeing the two positions cropping into beer talk? I freely admit that I consume both my share of local beer and of imports (does that mean I am drinking two shares??). As do most of you, I suspect. So this isn’t a debate about action, it is about attitude. How we frame “good beer” and what it is may not shape our personal behaviour, but it does have consequence. Every beer aficionado is, in their own way, a community leader on the topic. When we engage in local-bashing or import-trashing, there are people listening to us and their opinion is being shaped by what we say.
So, I guess, I am making an argument for paying attention to how we frame the debate. It is not “import vs. local”. It is “import and local”. I know we drink that way, so let’s admit that we do so.
October 2, 2013 at 12:44 PM
I think I’m right there “straddling” the fence with you. I lived in Germany and had exceptional pils and hefs at my disposal, but could not for the life of me find a good “hoppy” beer save the Sticke Alt I had in Duesseldorf. In my travels to other countries I found the beer differed but mostly bland lagers seemed to dominate the Eastern European scene – much like it still seems to in some parts of our fair continent. I came back to Canada in 2006 (Edmonton then Calgary in 2011) just when craft was starting to becoming more popular. I love supporting local but also love to sit back and sip a fine German pils from time-to-time. If not purely for nostalgic purposes, I find my palate still craves some noble hops now and again. Long live both schools of thought!
October 2, 2013 at 1:35 PM
I live by this: Drink local beer. Including other people’s local beer.
October 2, 2013 at 3:41 PM
Libarbarian, TOO funny!!
October 3, 2013 at 1:12 PM
I agree that it is important to stimulate local beer with our money and keep them going, but we should also be stimulating them with our thoughts on other beers from around the world. Of course, every brewer has their own unique idea of what a good beer is, as well as what profile combinations make for good beer, and having discussions with the local brewers about these combinations may help them bring up their game and move them into the international market.
In that sense, living inside either box is detrimental to the local scene.
October 11, 2013 at 11:25 AM
I do enjoy local beers, but I like them to be 100% barley malt with, a few exceptions like some wheat beers. Alley Kat, Big Rock and Brewster’s as example. However I try to taste every kind of beer, import or local, before saying not to any beer. If in the ingredients, it does not clearly say that only barley malt (plus hops, water, and yeast like the German purity law) is used, it is because it either has corn, rice, sugar or a combination of them. Let’s enjoy one right now.