There are a few styles I wish we had access to better examples around these parts. One of those is Altbier. This old, German ale is one of my favourite styles to brew at home. I really appreciate the subtle blend of rich malt and earthy hop on a clean base. It is a surprisingly hard style to brew well, requiring a delicate touch.

There are a couple of commercial examples around. Dieu Du Ciel has their Rescousse, which is a nice example and the Trois Mousquetaires Sticke Alt is quite lovely, but is more assertive than your usual altbier (by design, of course). Brewsters did up a nice version some time back, but it was a brief appearance. Beyond that, the pickings get rather slim.

So, when I was in B.C. this summer, I noticed a bottle of Crooked Coast Amber Ale from Victoria’s Driftwood Brewing. Driftwood, owned by a former Edmonton homebrewer, has a strong reputation for its uncompromising beer. I picked up a bottle and finally got around to trying it a few days ago.

It pours exactly as an Alt should – light copper with a moderate off-white head. The aroma begins with that intriguing interplay between soft toffee malt and a floral hop aroma. I pick up some light fruit int he background and some dry graininess as well.

The front impression is a a sharp graininess, some toffee and other rich malt character, a hint of nuttiness and a touch of fruit. The hops build in the middle, very floral and grassy. The finish is quite balanced; overall quite dry but with enough malt to keep the beer interesting. The hops come forward with pine and floral notes but don’t overwhelm the malt.

This beer gets many things right. The balance between malt and hop is perfect. Exactly what an altbier asks for. I would have liked to see the two blend a bit more – they stand beside each other a bit too much. It might be a bit too ale-like as well, offering a bit too many fruity esters. I like its ability to be dry yet retain rich malt notes. It is not a perfect interpretation of a Dusseldorf Alt, but it hits the mark in many ways. It is good enough to make me wish it was sold here so I could drink it more often.