The latest in Sherbrooke’s and Paddock Wood’s Beer Gods Series quietly came out a few weeks back. Ninkasi, named after the Sumerian Goddess of Beer, is the fourth in the series. This has been a fun and educational approach to one-off beer. I hope they find a way to re-brew them all at the end and offer a mixed pack or other such offering. It would be fun to see them side-by-side. Tangentially, one of the first known written records of beer is an ode to Ninkasi (it even contains a recipe for Sumerian beer).

This Ninkasi is an Imperial Pilsner, clocking in at 8.3%. In general I am a bit cool on making the “imperial’ moniker a generic term for “bigger”. However, I will give them a pass for the time being, as Ninkasi would prefer it that way.

The beer pours light gold with a decent white head that hangs around well enough. It is bright and effervescent, not giving the unsuspecting drinker a hint at the strength that lurks within it. In the aroma I pick up sweet corn and aromatic earthiness. There is also some graininess and a touch of rounded malt like honey and rich kettle melanodin. Some grassiness lingers in the background.

The beer starts with a soft grainy malt, rather big with a rich malt base and a fairly big body. The middle brings out some hops, which continue to build into the linger. It is a spicy, floral hop flavour and bitterness reminiscent of classic Czech pilsners. The bitterness is fairly balanced, but the hops has a remarkable linger to it. It lasts forever with a sharp earthiness. At first the alcohol only hints at its presence, only finally giving itself away in the linger, where a distinct warming builds.

I will admit that this is an intense beer. It is exactly what it promises to be  – a pilsner base ramped up to imperial level. They do everything right with it, keeping the balance while upping the intensity. I appreciate the beer, but I find myself undecided on whether I “like” it. I can tell that it is well-made and hits its targets. But I find myself regularly looking at the glass with a quizzical look on my face.

I think, after some contemplation, it is not the beer’s fault. I think I just don’t appreciate an imperialized pilsner. It is the malt base, mostly, that crinkles my nose. The amped up graininess just doesn’t hit my palate that well. I really appreciate the hops and the way Paddock Wood maintained that key balance between the components.

This is clearly a case where the impression of the beer will come down to personal preference. The beer is well-made, and is a creative idea. I am sure many will love it. I certainly respect it, but simply believe I prefer a regular-sized pilsner and will save my imperials for stouts and IPAs. However, don’t let this dissuade you. Pick up a bottle. Give it a try. Maybe you might love imperial pilsner.