Much like the Rauchbier I mentioned a few weeks ago, for some reason Nova Scotia also has a selection of Brasserie Dupont beer available at the moment. I have always found Belgian-based Dupont, most famous for its saison (which in my opinion may be unparalleled), to be consistently top shelf and thus have always made an effort to scoop up bottles when I can. A couple of weeks ago I spotted one that I had never seen before – Biere de Miel. It indicates (as the rather obvious name notes) that it is brewed with an addition of honey. I had to give it a try.
It pours an opaque, hazy mediume orange with a dense, tightly packed white head that does not build too high. Immediately I pick up scents of sweet meadow honey, clover, a little fruit and floral notes. These summery aromas are backed by a touch of black pepper and must. It speaks saison with a twist to me.
My sip finds a soft pilsner malt graininess at first along with some grassy, clover-like sweetness, a light peach and apricot lilt and soft honey surrounding. I also find a saison-like spicing, but it seems to prefer to linger in the background, leaning against a tree letting the honey and fruit frolic in the sunshine. I also find some lurking mustiness – not a lot, just a touch. Without question honey is the feature of this beer, but not at the expense of complexity. It is sweeter and lighter than a regular saison. It has a soft, silky body despite its effervescence. I get not a single hint of its surprisingly large 8% alcohol punch.
An enjoyable beer that seems smack on for a warm summery afternoon. My only regret is that it is a 250 ml bottle (why do all of their product come in such small bottles?) and I purchased only one, thus I am left under-sated in my desire for this beer. Once again Dupont demonstrates its skill at offering complexity with lightness of being. As a saison, this is possibly too understated, but the honey is so evocative that I can completely forgive it that sin.
A satisfying beer from a truly impressive brewery. Makes me glad summer is finally here.
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