Got a chance to try Wild Rose’s (the brewery, not the party, thank goodness) latest seasonal last night, Hop Smashed In Belgian-Style IPA. I have been curious about this one since I heard it would be released. This fusion-style is a challenging one (both to brew and to get your tastebuds around), and there are only a handful available around these parts (although the classic De Ranke XX Bitter is available). I am certain Wild Rose is the first Alberta brewery to try their hand at it (I was feeling too lazy to research if someone else in Canada has done it – I trust DDC at the minimum has).

The key feature of this “style” (I put quotes around it to avoid another “what rates as a style?” debate) is the mixing of Belgian yeast character and higher levels of hop bitterness and aroma. Most Abbey-style ales possess low hopping rates, and so the thought of upping the bitter while keeping all the funk is very creative. It began with Belgian brewers taking up some American influence, and now we see American brewers playing with Belgian methods to produce the same thing.

Hop Smashed In (a lovely play on words and a nod to the famous Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump) is a light copper beer, with surprising clarity. It builds a voluminous bright white head with tons of lacing. It is a gorgeous beer, to be sure. The first aromas to hit my nose are a bit of citrus fruit and biscuity grain. However within milliseconds they are shouldered aside by a sharp, funky, earthy yeast aroma that also throws off some pepper and clove for good measure. It smells like an assertive, complex strain of yeast. To finish off a moderate level of floral hop aroma appears. I imagine they put in a good share of aroma hops, but it gets overpowered somewhat by the yeast character.

In the taste there is a light sweetness upfront, and then a snaking of earthy belgian spice and herbal hop. with light citrus notes The two intertwine, fight and cooperate all the way through the beer. The yeast offers clove, smoke, funkiness and earthy spice. The hops linger at the end (as does the yeast) with a pine and citrus character.The beer comes across generally as complex, sharp and full of “top-end” flavours (if that makes any sense).

As my glass empties I find each sip brings out a different component of this beer. In one there is hops; the next brings out smoky phenols; one after that more peppery and citrusy. I am enjoying the experience of svaouring its intermingling of two brewing cultures. The yeast and hop play well together. My “top-end” comment has me contemplating that what might bring this beer fully home is a bit more “bottom-end”. Just like a good bass line in a rock song, beer also needs a solid malt anchor. In the melange of hops and yeast, the malt gets a bit lost. There are some light grainy and biscuit malts lurking, but like the little brother on the soccer field, it doesn’t get many ball-touches.

Maybe it is just a byproduct of the top-end intensity (and the “style” should be dry and light), but I wonder if a bit of a malt boost might create a triad of flavours and make the beer even more complex. On the other hand, maybe that would overdo it, and it is better off a bit thinner. Or maybe I am thinking too much about this. Time to stop thinking and go back to savouring.

Hop Smashed In reminds me, in many respects, of some Mikkeller beer. Earthy, uninhibited and angular. And lots of Belgian funkiness. Kudos to Wild Rose for taking this challenge on. Will definitely pick up another bottle soon.