The funky newish owners of Wunderbar, a small music bar on Whyte Avenue with a re-invigorated commitment to local and craft beer, and Edmonton’s Amber’s Brewing have partnered to release Whytemud Whysky Lager, an oak barrel-aged exclusive. It is only available on tap at Wunderbar, and only until the six kegs run dry (it has been on for less than a week and the first keg is almost empty).

Amber’s says that they used a pilsner as the base beer, mixed in a bit of their Kenmount Road Chocolate Stout for colour and some body and left it for 40 days in two whiskey barrels from Highwood Distilling. They report that they wanted wood character more than alcohol bump, so swished the barrels before adding the beer.

I popped by for a pint the other day to experience it myself. It is a cloudy reddish copper with a thin, off-white head that doesn’t last long. It has a butterscotch, caramel and rye aroma with a bit of pils malt sweetness in the background, not unlike Innis & Gunn. The flavour is similar, with some caramel, toffee and soft oakey diacetyl. The base beer is clean and sweet. The oak is pleasant, adding a dimension to the beer rather than dominating it. It finishes moderately sweet. The beer is quite lightly carbonated, which contributes to a smooth, silky mouthfeel.

In contrast to the Ola Dubh series and even the Glenn Sherbrooke, both of which display the rich complexity of oak more assertively, I think this provides a great entry point into oak-aged beer. It is the kind of beer you can easily have a couple of pints without it being overwhelming. I am particularly intrigued by the decision to go with a lager base (most oak aged beer are ales). I think this adds to the drinkability of the beer and the cleanliness. It allows the more subtle character of the wood to come out.

As for Wunderbar, I have been plannning to write about them for a while, and will in greater detail soon. But for now, you should know the new owners have moved quickly to re-assert a good beer presence at the bar. Everything on tap is local (Amber’s, Alley Kat, Yellowhead and Roughneck). and for their bottled beer cooler, they have selected a few dozen excellent craft beer. I will talk more about the owners, their plans for the pub and what it might mean for craft beer lovers soon, but for now I suggest if you want to try the Whytemud Whysky Lager, don’t wait too long.