S
ome Canadian breweries get a lot of ink, not undeservedly. We all know about the consistently high quality of Unibroue, the adventurous impressiveness of Dieu Du Ciel, the runaway reputation of Central City’s Red Racer. Some breweries fly under the radar, in more ways than one. I have long argued western Canadian breweries tend to not get their share of kudos (hence this website, but I digress), but there are dozens of other breweries that quietly toil their craft, brewing up quiet gems of barley goodness.
I have a soft spot for the lower profile breweries. Not only might I find a hidden treasure, but I enjoy the adventure of having a beer I know little about. It is kind of like a blind date – you never know how it will turn out.
Today’s review is a perfect example of how blind dates sometimes work out. Before Xmas I picked up a bottle of La Buteuse Brassin Speciale from Le Trou Du Diable. “Who?” you might ask. I wouldn’t blame you. Le Trou Du Diable is a small brewery/brewpub in Shawinigan, Quebec (home of Jean Chretien, the “little guy” himself). Not much of their beer makes it out here – small batches of this and that – so their profile definitely counts as “low”.
La Buteuse is the brewery’s Belgian tripel. However, this particular bottle was aged for four months in brandy cider casks from a local cidery/micro-distillery in Quebec. I wanted to try that out. It presents as a hazy orange copper with a thin white head. The aroma is sour, lambic-like with a sharp lactic note, some quiet earthiness and a touch of sweetness underneath. I also pick up some subtle pear and peach fruitiness.
The flavour has that classic tripel pepperiness and spiciness, along with some pilsner malt sweetness upfront. It balances that with some noticeable sourness, but not overpowering. I also pick up some of that classic horseblanket mustiness. Yes, I said ‘horseblanket’ – that is the only way to describe that particular earthy, musty pungent taste that comes from Brettanomyces fermentation. Taste it once and you will know EXACTLY why we use that word. Overall it is surprisingly balanced, complex and multi-layered. Very rare tasting, if you know what I mean.
It is someting of a cross between a Tripel and a Flanders Red (a sour Belgian style).It (pleasantly) evokes memories of the 3-year-old Orval I had in Brussels one time. Very similar in its mustiness, balance and light sourness. That is high praise, indeed!
The beer is named after Father Buteux, who was tossed by pissed off aboriginals into the falls near Shawinigan (called Devil’s Hole) during colonization. Not sure if Buteux deserved his fate, but his beer certainly deserves kinder treatment.
January 11, 2011 at 9:28 AM
Sounds great! Your website just gained one new loyal follower 🙂
I come from Montreal and love micro-brewery beers, yet had never heard of Le Trou du Diable. Can you tell me where you found La Buteuse? I just moved to Edmonton, and so far haven’t found a liquor store with a decent selection of beer (or wine!).
Thanks for sharing!
January 11, 2011 at 9:57 AM
Ly,
Welcome to the prairies! There are two answers to your question. The first is that every beer available in the province of Alberta can be found at Sherbrooke Liquor store (118 Avenue and St. Albert Trail), so it is perfect for one-stop shopping.
However, so I don’t sound like I am shilling for Sherbrooke, you can also use a searchable online database run by Connect Logistics. It is http://www.alberta-liquor-guide.com.
Good luck and have fun exploring the world of beer out here.
Jason
January 11, 2011 at 12:20 PM
Hi, sorry, but i live in shawinigan, and its very difficult to have that beer. Its available in only two groceries.. and during a couple weeks only during christmas.
January 11, 2011 at 5:25 PM
My experience with a ‘lower profile’ brewery, or certainly the very first beer I tried from them having heard the Charlevoix name only two or three times. Last time I was in Keg’n’Cork’s beer cooler I decided on a whim to peruse the other side of the cooler(north side, if my compass is right;-)). One of the first few labels to catch my attention was that of Charlevoix’s ‘mad cow’ La Vache Folle milk stout. I didn’t think twice about snapping it up…but considered seeing what else they(K&C)had from Charlevoix. Their Dominus Vobiscum Blanche caught my eye – a spiced wheat ale, what a contrast to a stout!
What a suPerb contrast indeed! A pleasantly spicy lemony citrus wonderfully softened/rounded out by chamomile…and I still haven’t opened the La Vache Folle. Definitely a, make that The beer I’ll reach for as a periodic change from *James Earl Jones voice*the darker side – stouts, porters, cascadians, nut/honey browns, etc.
January 12, 2011 at 8:00 AM
Thanx for the info Beer Guy! I’ll be sure to check out both the online database and Sherbrooke Liquor Store.
January 29, 2012 at 12:09 PM
I have noticed an alarming trend here in Calgary that pubs are now defining a “pint” as 0.4 cL which is a good 168 mL less than a pint. And the prices have gone up if anything. Quite vexing!
January 29, 2012 at 7:22 PM
Yeah, that is becoming pretty common, not just in Calgary but in all of Alberta. The problem is that there is no standard definition for “pint”. All they have to do is indicate somewhere, in small type, what the actual volume is.
All we can do as customers is ask and give them heck when their size is too small.
Cheers!