My latest Vue Weekly column is a review of Creemore Spring’s Traditional Pilsner, recently available in Alberta in cans. I was nervous about trying this, the second permanent beer in Creemore’s line up. I enjoy their Premium Lager quite a bit. It is exactly what it aims and promises to be – a clean, enjoyable all-malt light lager. On a summer day a Creemore can hit the spot. I have written about Creemore before (try here as one example), and I honestly believe they have weathered the Molson takeover well. I don’t detect any drop off in quality since the buyout.

My nervousness came from the fact that, generally, the Canadian pilseners I have sampled have left me rather cold. Paddock Wood’s Czech Mate is admirable and Half Pints’ Phils Pils is refreshingly divergent in its profile (plus the Cerna Horna at L’Amere a Boire in Montreal was excellent). Okay maybe I am disproving my own point by offering a list of decent pilseners, but I still feel that generally Canadian brewers have not really taken to the style well. Most lack balance or appropriate hop character to make it for me.

But I took the dive anyway, and wrote up the review. As you will read (if you wish), I found it okay, but not spectacular. It was a bit harsh and the hops fought with the malt too much. However, it was enjoyable to drink. Since the review I have had a second glass and my impression has solidified – pleasant but not a world-beater. I wouldn’t decline it at a party or a pub lacking other craft beer.

Creemore is in a funny spot in the market – they are a craft brewer but still play in the lager end of the pool meaning they can’t go too deep. Plus the name pilsner has been so abused in the past 5 decades that it can be difficult to create customer expectations for a real pilsner. Even the fact this beer clearly has hop bitterness and character says something about how the Canadian palate may be changing. Who knows, maybe one day Lethbridge Pils might be a real pilsener again … Nah!!

Read the whole review here.